Farmer’s Daughter Bar & Restaurant
1401 Morris Road
Blue Bell, Pennsylvania
(215) 616-8300
http://normandyfarm.com/eat/the-farmers-daughter/
Tucked away in a highly unlikely location – in the bowels of the Normandy Farm Hotel-Conference Center – the Farmer’s Daughter adds a homey touch to a facility that is commonly (and somewhat derogatorily) known as a “wedding factory.”
The eatery, though, originally Coleman Restaurant, a vehicle for celebrity chef Jim Coleman, host of the popular WHYY show A Chef’s Table, got off to a rather rocky start. Like many celebrity chefs, Mr. Coleman did most of his cooking in absentia; and proceeded to depart his kitchen, as well as his gig with WHYY, in 2010.
A year later, the restaurant was reincarnated as the Farmer’s Daughter, with Texas native Chef Corey Fair as the power-behind-the-stove… But a scant two weeks after the debut, Mr. Fair performed a spirited “exit stage left,” leaving the kitchen in the hands of sous chef Mtele “Abu” Abubakar, with whom he had worked for several years.
Mr. Abubakar’s hands, however, despite all the confusion, have proved quite capable. Still in his early thirties, the Kenyan native and Culinary Institute of America graduate is a seasoned veteran of kitchens in England, Dubai, Romania, and Northern California. And there is no question that his strong artistic sense adds a decided touch of class to the restaurant’s local-farm-to-table emphasis, which is attractively carried over onto the rustic reclaimed wood décor.
Aforementioned kudos notwithstanding, there are certain eateries that are better suited for lunch rather than dinner encounters – and, in my opinion, the Farmer’s Daughter is certainly one of them. Since it’s not what I would consider a “destination restaurant,” I wouldn’t be all that anxious to make a special pilgrimage for an evening meal… Lunch, on the other hand, is a different story; and several spur-of-the-moment sojourns here have proved to be thoroughly enjoyable.
The kitchen prides itself on utilizing locally sourced ingredients whenever possible… a pledge that also extends to the various breads, which are baked daily on the premises. And the moment those ciabatta rolls hit the table – buttressed by herb-infused olive oil – you know that all will be well.
If you’re into greenery, the menu offers a number of possibilities. The ubiquitous wedge – iceberg, diced tomatoes, bacon, blue cheese crumbles, and creamy blue cheese dressing – is, of course, present and accounted for. And it’s quite good… But there are certainly more interesting options.
The spiraled beet salad, for example, is comprised of roasted carrots, walnuts, feta cheese, and an exotic ginger-peanut vinaigrette. And the Asian variation incorporates orange segments, fried wontons, and water chestnuts with romaine lettuce and sesame dressing. Top marks, however, undoubtedly go to the grilled asparagus salad companioned by arugula and finished with a fabulous shallot vinaigrette and butter fried egg.
At lunch, however, it’s the sandwiches that take center stage, and rightly so. Whether served up with the crispy addictive house-made chips, beer battered fries, or sweet potato fries, they are first-class all the way.
And topping the list is the irresistible short rib grilled cheese. Short ribs are all the rage of late; and the kitchen takes full advantage of their meaty magic. The ribs are shredded and teamed with zippy horseradish cheese on ciabatta bread. Caramelized onions add sweetness; peppadew peppers a splash of color. This is a great combo of ingredients; and sure to please those with hearty appetites.
By the way, the peppadew, a type of piquante pepper, is a portmanteau of “pepper” and “dew.” It has often been described as a cross between a pepper and tomato, because of its resemblance to the cherry tomato in both color and size. The taste is sweet and tangy with just a touch of heat.
The French dip, another variation on the beef theme, is equally recommended. In reality, this is strictly an American dish. The only things French about it are the fact that its ingredients – shaved beef, provolone cheese, and horseradish – are occasionally piled between crusty layers of a baguette (although here it is a steak roll), and that it is served au jus, “with (its own) juice,” for dipping. The Farmer’s Daughter’s version also adds a ramekin of red cabbage slaw; and, in lieu of fries, we opted for those addictive house-made chips.
If you’d care to broaden your horizons, the fish & chips provides an excellent diversion. The cod filets are beer battered and are served with first-rate fries, coleslaw, and tartar sauce. The first time the dish hit the table, the fish itself was perfectly prepared, but the batter a bit on the soggy side. However, once it emerged from a second go-round in the kitchen, the crust was at its crispy, crunchy best. Definitely worth a try.
… As is the branzino (Mediterranean sea bass). As you note from the photo, the filet is served skin side up, both to add a bit of color and also to keep it from cooling off at the speed of light… So turn it over (carefully) and check out the pristine white flesh; marvelously moist, succulent & beguilingly sweet on the palate, it is an absolutely delicious winner in every respect.
My only quibble is that the fish’s natural flavor is completely eclipsed by a barley-chorizo pilaf drowned in an off-puttingly unctuous bacon-citrus vinaigrette. This is one culinary marriage that surely wasn’t made in heaven… The chef really needs to do a bit of rethinking here.
As noted above, the Farmer’s Daughter is a good spot for lunch, which is served Monday – Saturday, 11:30 a.m. – 2:00 p.m. (brunch on Sunday, 9:30 a.m. – 1:30 p.m.). However, even if you arrive too late for lunch in the main dining room, the spacious bar/lounge serves many of the same items found on the luncheon menu from 2:30 p.m. – 10:00 p.m.
Bon Appétit!
TAD
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