The Joy of Ballpark Food – A Book Review

FROM THE BOOKSHELF: Bennett Jacobstein, The Joy of Ballpark Food: From Hot Dogs to Haute Cuisine (Ballpark Food Publications, 2015, 154 pages)

One of the perks of being a restaurant reviewer/food writer is that you are occasionally prevailed upon to write a book review. The latest publication to cross my desk, The Joy of Ballpark Food, penned by a retired librarian and publisher of demographic literature, is a remarkably interesting and informative read that will appeal not only to baseball fanatics, but dedicated foodies as well. Mr. Jacobstein, who considers himself an infinitely better eater than he was a ballplayer, obviously spent a great deal of time in research; and his list of online sources is, indeed, exhaustively impressive – and certainly a major plus for enterprising readers who may wish to do a bit of supplemental research on their own.

According to the author, baseball is a game that has always been identified with food… Although, from the early twentieth century until sometime in the 1980s, basic ballpark fare consisted mainly of hot dogs, ice cream, peanuts, and Cracker Jack. The book begins with a short history of how these simple items became so closely identified with America’s national pastime and then moves on to discuss the gradual upgrading of the ballpark menu to include more exotic offerings. Also mentioned along the way are “Colorful Vendors,” an illustrated chapter on “Old-Time Food Offerings and Prices,” and a nostalgic look at the third most frequently played song in America: “Take Me Out to the Ball Game.”

The most fascinating chapter of the book, however, as well as the most expansive, is entitled a “Culinary Tour of the Major League Ballparks.” During the 2014 baseball season, accompanied by his wife, Deborah, who also served as food photographer, Mr. Jacobstein traveled to each of the 30 major league stadiums to check out the variety of foods available to general ticketed fans – from hotdogs & sausages to the haut cuisine of a new food era… And as he quickly discovered, the age of hot dogs, peanuts and Cracker Jack alone is now little more than a memory.

The hot dog/sausage possibilities, however, are virtually limitless – and include such innovative (and intoxicating) possibilities as Target Field’s (Minnesota Twins) Bloody Mary Bratwurst… but the ubiquitous peanuts and Cracker Jack have long since been supplanted by nachos and garlic fries.

When it comes to so-called haut cuisine, the choices are varied… and variable. They range from such health-conscious specialties as Seattle’s Grilled Wild Alaskan Salmon Sandwich, Houston’s Green Fork Fresh Salads, San Diego’s Roasted Tomato Hummus with Pita Chips, Pittsburgh’s Seaweed Salad, and Minnesota’s Veggie Kabobs to such artery-clogging nightmares as Detroit’s Infamous Bacon Burger, Arizona’s Fatburger D-backs Double Cheeseburger, and Philadelphia’s “The Schmitter.” Erroneously thought to be named after Hall-of-Famer Mike Schmidt, “The Schmitter” was invented in the 1920s at McNally’s Quick Lunch in Philly’s Chestnut Hill section and is, in reality, named after Schmidt’s Beer. A deliciously lethal combo of sliced beef topped with cheese, fried onions, tomatoes, grilled salami, and Schmitter sauce (think Thousand Island dressing); it is served on a flash-broiled Conshohocken Kaiser roll.

Then, of course, there is always the bizarre (literally). Andrew Zimmern, host of the Travel Channel’s Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern, owns a canteen at Minnesota’s Target Field that advertises itself as a “food adventure.” Only two distinct entrées are offered: Minnesota crispy belly bacon sandwich with vinegar slaw and jalapeño jelly; and a smoked meat sandwich with vinegar slaw and maple syrup hot sauce… It’s your call.

The Joy of Ballpark Food: From Hot Dogs to Haute Cuisine is a feast for baseball fans and foodies alike. It’s a downright fun read, and author Bennett Jacobstein is a congenial and enthusiastic guide to a wealth of historical facts and fascinating trivia.

The book was published in January 2015 and may be purchased from Amazon.com at http://www.amazon.com/The-Joy-Ballpark-Food-Cuisine/dp/0692336540. All the royalties from the sale of The Joy of Ballpark Food are being donated to Second Harvest Food Bank of Santa Clara and San Mateo Counties, one of the largest food banks in the nation, providing food to more than 250,000 each month. Second Harvest also plays a leading role in promoting federal nutrition programs and educating families on how to make healthier food choices.

Bon Appétit!

TAD