On the last Wednesday of most months during the year, the Kimberton Inn in Kimberton, Pennsylvania, hosts what is described as a “creative wine and food pairing.” In other words, rather than emphasizing a specific theme or winery, wines from a number of different countries/regions are chosen to accompany five different dishes, which often are as diverse in origin as the wines themselves. Chef Jim Trainer is the power behind the stove; restaurant manager Jason Irrgang assumes the role of sommelier.
The Kimberton Inn is well known as a venue for wedding receptions, banquets, and gatherings of similar ilk. I freely confess that I have always been somewhat leery of such establishments – but this charming Colonial enclave continues to deliver the goods. Not only does it acquit itself admirably with regard to larger parties, it also provides a relaxing romantic setting for couples wishing to celebrate that special occasion. The stately building, originally constructed in 1796, charms patrons with its impeccably maintained rustic ambiance, cozy crackling fireplaces, and intimate bar/lounge.
Alluring auras notwithstanding, it is Chef Trainer’s lovingly prepared and beautifully presented cuisine that remains the center of attention. His offerings are pleasantly innovative without being anachronistic; they beguile the palate without bewildering the eye, clearly demonstrating the kitchen’s commitment to componential and proportional restraint… And the Inn’s most recent wine dinner, held on Thursday, October 28, 2015, was yet another shining example of Mr. Trainer’s culinary prowess.
Lamentably, however, the kitchen’s exemplary dishes encountered several unexpected and unaccountable obstacles – namely Jason Irrgang’s less than stellar wine pairings. Mr. Irrgang, who began washing dishes in the kitchen over 10 years ago at the age of 15 and rose up through the ranks to become the restaurant’s manager, strikes one as entirely too impressed with his own oenological expertise. Unfortunately, in my opinion, he has neither the experience nor the savoir faire to carry off his ostentatious smoke & mirrors act without falling flat on his tastevin.
There will, of course, always be room for differences of opinion when it comes to wine & food pairings. On the other hand, certain combinations work infinitely better than others… And the great majority of Mr. Irrgang’s wine pairings were as ill-conceived as his plaid sport shirt, striped tie, light gray suit, bedroom slipper-style brown shoes attempt at sartorial finery. Not that there was anything wrong with the wines per se – with one major exception – it’s simply that his selections were more contemptuous of rather than complementary to their comestible counterparts.
Dinner began with a demitasse of red lentil soup adorned with red pepper and quinoa tabbouleh. This was followed by a sweet potato tart embellished with pear relish, black pepper & maple walnuts, and crisped speck. Both dishes were benchmark. The lentil soup was beautifully balanced, perfectly seasoned, and a touch on the creamy side; and the tart was beguilingly rich and as smooth as silk on the palate.
Both of the above presentations would have derived a great deal of benefit from the light complementary touch of a red Rioja or Pinot Noir. For some unknown reason, however, Mr. Irrgang chose to match them up with a 2013 Le Fay d’Homme Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie (Melon de Bourgogne) and 2014 Château Graville-Lacoste Graves Blanc (60% Sémillion; 35% Sauvignon Blanc; 5% Muscadelle), respectively; two white wines that are extremely high in acidity. In both cases, after luxuriating in the comforting waves of two smoothly balanced dishes, those astringent jolts hit the palate with the impact a brick through a plate glass window; and this, needless to say, had a decidedly deleterious effect upon Mr. Trainer’s superlative efforts. Mr. Irrgang should have known better… but obviously he didn’t.
With the arrival of the third course, the choucroute garnie, Mr. Irrgang committed the same faux pas, only in reverse. French for “dressed sauerkraut,” choucroute garnie is a famous Alsatian recipe for preparing sauerkraut with sausages, other salted meats, charcuterie and, commonly, potatoes. Mr. Trainer’s diminutive variation on the theme was nothing less than exquisite (a word not usually associated with this hearty dish), as photogenic as it was delicious.
This dish finds its perfect libationary counterpart in one of two locally produced wines: either a steely Alsatian Riesling or spicy Gewürztraminer. I prefer the former; as, in this case, that crisp splash of acidity is a splendid match for the acidity of the sauerkraut and also helps to balance out the richness of the sausages and other meats. This is, indeed, a marriage made in heaven.
Mr. Irrgang, of course, simply could not resist the temptation to tinker with perfection… He saddled the choucroute with a 2014 Companon Arrieta Tempranillo, a florally forward red Rioja, which was, most assuredly, grounds for yet another gastronomic divorce. Under different circumstances, I’m quite certain the Rioja would have been thoroughly enjoyable. But next to the racy, vibrant flavors of the choucroute it felt flat, cumbersome and, once again, severely depreciated rather than enhanced Mr. Trainer’s superb offering.
The fourth course, veal osso bucco, garnered even more kudos for the kitchen. The meat was tender, succulent, and rife with flavor enlivened with an irresistible natural jus. Perfectly cooked aromatic vegetables and spaetzle in strong supporting roles added both pleasant splashes of color and contrasting textures… And Mr. Irrgang finally got it right. His accompaniment of the 2013 Querciavalle Rosso del Cavalier Tranquillo, a Chianti blend, proved a perfect bull’s-eye.
But the best (or, more accurately, the worst) was yet to come. The fifth course was a warm almond pear tart garnished with cinnamon ice cream and caramel sauce. Simple but sublime. The choice of the wine, on the other hand, Del Professore Bianco NV, a white vermouth, was an unmitigated disaster.
At the conclusion of a meal, you want a wine that is sweet enough to complement your dessert. The Del Professore Bianco had but infinitesimal hints of sweetness that were completely eclipsed by an underlying, off-putting medicinal bitterness. Imagine the worst cough medicine you were forced to swallow as a child… or the ungodly horrors of a Campari-Fletcher’s Castoria cocktail… Well, you get the idea.
Mr. Irrgang is obviously hardworking and enthusiastic… However, as I noted at the outset, he seems inordinately consumed with his own supposed oenological proficiency and self-importance. As a result, many of his wine pairings are entirely too cutesy and convoluted for his own good… I think it would be well for him – and greatly to the restaurant’s benefit – if he would lighten up a bit, exercise some sound judgment & self-control, and allow the needs of his patrons to take precedence over his ego.
Bon Appétit!
TAD
{ 0 comments… add one now }