Agave Mexican Cuisine, Chadds Ford, PA – A Review

Agave Mexican Cuisine

1620 Baltimore Pike (Route 1)

Chadds Ford, Pennsylvania

(484) 770-8345

www.agavebyo.com

 Agave Mexican Cuisine, which opened for business on January 25, 2017, occupies the space that was formerly home to the Fellini Café in the tiny shopping center at Baltimore Pike and Creek Road.

If you’re thinking that name sounds vaguely familiar, this is undoubtedly because there is an extremely popular Agave Mexican Restaurant in Lewes, Delaware. The two eateries, however, are not affiliated. The Chadds Ford restaurant is BYOB and is presided over by the same group that owns the Spasso Italian Grill restaurants in Media, PA, and on South Front Street in Philadelphia.

Given Agave’s ideal location – situated directly across Rout1 from Antica Italian Restaurant and BYO and Brandywine prime (both previously reviewed) – should you be visiting anywhere in the area, either antiquing or paying a call at the Brandywine River Museum, the restaurant would make a very pleasant stopover for either lunch or dinner.

The interior, replete with sound retardant wall panels, is simply and tastefully appointed. Just be advised… with all those unadorned surfaces – hardwood floors, lack of tablecloths, bare windows – when the place fills up, so does the decibel level. On the other hand, who really wants to chow down in a Mexican restaurant that doesn’t have a healthy dose of noisy hustle & bustle…? All that reverberation only adds to the fun.

… That being said, however, it is most assuredly the superior quality of the food that keeps the joint jumping. I’ve put in several dinner appearances and have yet to hit a clinker. The kitchen knows what it’s about… and carries it off with flair and panache. Mexican food isn’t exactly renowned for its photogenicity; but most of Agave’s presentations are as attractively presented as they are lovingly prepared.

A scant moment after you’re seated, the tortilla chips and salsa hit the table. The house-made chips are especially good, delightfully crunchy and seductively seasoned… But be sure to team them up with the kitchen’s benchmark Guacamole served in a traditional molcajete (Mexican version of mortar and pestle). Guacamole dip is customarily made by mashing ripe avocados and sea salt in the aforementioned molcajete. The other ingredients, however, may vary. Agave’s irresistibly chunky rendition incorporates chopped tomatoes, red onions, cilantro, serrano peppers, and splash of lime.

The Queso Fundido is another fabulous appetizer. This is a type of party dish, often compared to a cheese fondue. Typical main ingredients are melted cheese and a characteristic meat sauce of loose fresh chorizo, tomato, onion, chili, and spices. It is served in a small, shallow casserole or other ceramic or metal heatproof baking dish. The cheese and sauce are prepared separately and combined just before serving. The mixture is quickly broiled and presented while it is still bubbling hot. It is then spooned onto small soft tortillas for individual servings. This is an extremely rich dish but incredibly delicious and satisfying.

If you’d prefer something a bit lighter to begin your meal, Agave’s salads also make excellent starters. The Caesar Salad, for example, which – surprise, surprise – was actually invented in Mexico, is spruced up with cotija cheese and crispy tortilla strips. The Salpicon Salad (or salpicón, meaning “hodgepodge” or “medley” in Spanish) is comprised of romaine lettuce, diced tomatoes, cucumbers, avocado, radishes, and queso fresco splashed with a white wine tomatillo vinaigrette. My favorite, however, turned out to be a Salad Special of the evening (pictured), mixed greens tossed with tomatoes, cucumbers, candied walnuts, strawberries, golden raisins and finished with a beguiling agave vinaigrette.

As you move on to the main course, the tacos – all served on homemade corn tortillas – are especially noteworthy. And the way to go here is clearly the Taco Tasting Platter (pictured with a side of Kennett Square Mushrooms), which, depending upon the state of your appetite, might easily be suitable for sharing. Five varieties are represented: Carnitas (pulled pork with jalapeño aioli); Camaron (shrimp topped with pico de gallo); Costilla (short rib braised in guajillo chili sauce); Pescado (mahi mahi served with chipotle aioli, red cabbage coleslaw & avocado); and Coliflor (cauliflower and chickpeas) – and all are as appealing to the eye as they are to the palate.

Other familiar menu items include Chile Relleno and Enchilada de Costilla & Enchilada de Pollo, which feature short rib and chicken, respectively. Of infinitely more interest, however, is the Molote de Tinga (pictured). Molote consists of dough made from corn masa, sometimes blended with mashed potatoes, which is stuffed with different ingredients and then fried in lard or oil. In this case, it is filled with shredded chicken, tomatoes, onion, and chipotle and topped with crema fresca & queso fresco. If you’re tired of the usual suspects, you’ll find this Mexican spin on ravioli a genuine treat.

Seafood also presents some interesting possibilities… like the Camarones a la Diabla, for example, jumbo shrimp in a spicy, smoky chipotle & guajillo pepper sauce. When it comes to finny fare, Salmon a la Parrilla is a grilled filet topped with mango pico de gallo; and Bronzino a la Veracruzana offers up delicious Mediterranean seabass sautéed with capers, jalapeño peppers, black olives, onions, and white wine in a light but luscious tomato sauce. On one particular occasion, as an evening special, the kitchen also prepared the Branzino Baked in Parchment. The moist and flaky filet was presented topped with spinach and crabmeat and sided by Mexican green rice. A superlative effort.

Mexican restaurants aren’t known for their desserts, but Agave’s renditions are certainly worth saving room for. The Flan is quite good… the Tres Leches Cake – sponge cake soaked in a mixture of three milks: evaporated milk, sweetened condensed milk, and heavy cream – is very good… and the Cheesecake with Tequila Sauce is excellent. Even better, however, is the spectacular Cheesecake with Crème Brûlée Topping (pictured). The thick Graham cracker crust provides a fabulous crunch, while swatches of raspberry sauce add touches of color and a tangy contrast to the sugary crème brûlée. Worth the price of admission.

If you’re anywhere in the Chadds Ford area, Agave Mexican Cuisine deserves a visit… Just don’t forget to BYOB.

Bon Appétit!

TAD