Seasons 52 Fresh Grill & Wine Bar
160 North Gulph Road, Suite 101
King of Prussia, Pennsylvania
(610) 992-1152
Although it hardly seems possible, eight years have passed since I penned by initial review of Seasons 52, which made its debut in King of Prussia in March 2010. And as I mentioned in that original critique, I try to avoid reviewing chain restaurants, as I feel that locally-owned eateries usually have infinitely more to offer and are more deserving of our support. The only exception to this rule, however, is that the chain in question must be either so good or so bad that I simply can’t resist the opportunity to wax eloquent, pro or con. Fortunately, Seasons 52 is in the former category.
Part of the Darden Specialty Restaurant Group – which also includes Capital Grille, Eddie V’s Prime Seafood, Olive Garden, Longhorn Steakhouse, Cheddar’s Scratch Kitchen, Bahama Breeze, and Yard House – there are currently 42 Seasons 52 locations in the United States. But don’t sweat the corporate convolutions. Good things are happening here. The menu changes four times per year, with the seasons – as reflected in the name – and the kitchen strives to feature healthy and flavorful ingredients at their seasonal peak. In addition, the emphasis is on simple food preparation – wood-fire grilling and brick-oven cooking – which inevitably results in presentations that are naturally lower in fat and calories (calories are also listed on the menu).
As I mentioned in my initial review, if Seasons 52 has a signature dish, it is undoubtedly their irresistible flatbreads… And nothing has transpired to change my opinion. Current options range from the simplicity of Roasted Tomato with mozzarella, parmesan & basil, through All-Natural Pepperoni (pictured) and Buffalo Cauliflower drizzled with blue cheese, to the extravagance of Lobster & Fresh Mozzarella with grilled red peppers, scallions, and lobster sour cream.
The kitchen does a good job with soups and salads as well. Most recently sampled, for example, was their delicious take on Potato Leek Soup. Rich, creamy, and perfectly seasoned, a cup of this extravagant potage was more than sufficient to make an absolutely fabulous starter… Equally up to the mark was my dining partner’s Spinach and Strawberry Salad (pictured). In addition to the spinach and sliced strawberries, accompaniments also included toasted almonds, crumbles of Gorgonzola cheese, and splashes of white balsamic vinaigrette. An excellent presentation. The only minor quibble… despite the interesting array of ingredients, the salad was surprisingly bland.
As Seasons 52’s culinary strengths remain the same, so also do its weaknesses – namely, its entrées. And, once again, I would clarify… It’s not that the main courses aren’t good, for the most part, they are. They simply are not as good as a number of the restaurant’s other presentations. Take my 6-Ounce Wood-Grilled Filet Mignon (pictured), for example, which was positively superb. Prepared to a tender & succulent “medium,” precisely as ordered, it arrived at table pillowed on a luscious mound of Yukon gold mashed potatoes. The accompaniments were simplicity itself: roasted shiitake mushrooms and a savory red wine sauce…But then the kitchen had to muck up their good work by throwing in a load of roasted asparagus that was both under-cooked and downright stringy.
… And my dining partner’s Caramelized Grilled Sea Scallops were similarly victimized. The bivalves themselves were beautifully seared to a sensuous golden brown while their interior retained an irresistibly meaty texture… And the creamy mascarpone risotto proved to be a fabulous match. All would have been perfect, if the asparagus had been properly prepared. In truth, it never should have been allowed to leave the kitchen. Someone should have had a clue. When we boxed up the leftovers, the asparagus remained on our plates, virtually untouched. Yes, it was that bad.
A side order of Mac ‘N’ Cheese proved to be another disappointment. The menu description sounded good… parmesan panko breadcrumbs and aged cheddar cheese sauce. And it certainly looked the part. But as Cervantes wisely noted, “The proof of the pudding is in the eating.” And this dish just never delivered. The bland leading the bland… Anything approximately flavor was purely coincidental.
Desserts, however – or Mini Indulgences, as they are called here – are right back on track. There are eight from which to choose – Peanut Butter Torte, Belgian Chocolate S’Mores, Key Lime Pie, Raspberry Chocolate Chip Cannoli, Coconut Cream Pie, Cookies ‘N’ Cream, Turtle Cheesecake, and Pecan Pie – all priced at $4.00 per. You may also order a flight of six for $24.00.
When you’re not in the mood for a big dessert or a major addition to the evening’s check, the Mini Indulgence is just the right size and fills the bill quite nicely. My favorites…? No contest… the Peanut Butter Torte and Key Lime Pie (pictured).
The restaurant’s top drawer wine list – a recipient of the Wine Spectator 2020 Award of Excellence – is another high point. The selection by the bottle is most impressive; and many wines are also available in six- or nine-ounce pours. Some favorites include the 2019 Prüm “Essence” Riesling from Mosel, Germany; 2019 La Crema Chardonnay from Monterey, California; and 2018/2019 Jam Jar “Sweet White” Moscato from South Africa.
Among the reds, the 2017 Chateau Ste Michelle “Indian Wells” Merlot from Washington State’s Columbia Valley is a definite winner… ditto the 2018/2019 Loveblock Pinot Noir from New Zealand’s Central Otago region. The 2018 Franciscan is an extremely reliable California Cab; and you also can’t go wrong with the 2018/2019 Antinori “Santa Cristina,” a delicious, moderately-priced Tuscan Sangiovese.
Just one or two concluding thoughts… Since, in my opinion, the restaurant’s entrées are the weakest link in their gastronomic chain, I would suggest stopping by for lunch – or an afternoon snack & libation – rather than dinner. This would give you opportunity to sample a number of possibilities that are infinitely superior to main courses served up in the evening… Like the tacos, for example – either the Blackened Mahi Mahi (pictured) or the Wood-Grilled Steak – both of which come embellished with pico de gallo, avocado-lime crema, and rice & beans; and both of which run a close second to the above-mentioned incomparable flatbreads. Other luncheon selections include the Naked Cheddar Burger, Grilled Chicken Caprese Sandwich, and Lump Crab Cake Sandwich. All worthy of consideration.
Finally… If you’re in the company of a large party, you have no choice but the bustling dining room. However, should you be dining à deux, one of the cozy booths in the bar area would be infinitely more preferable.
Bon Appétit!
Be Safe & Stay Well
TAD
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