The Vieux Carré is a legendary cocktail that most people have either never heard of… or mispronounce (It is pronounced in the Cajun & Creole style “vyur kaa ray”). But that hardly matters. What does matter is that this is a libation you may definitely wish to add to your cocktail resumé. The Vieux Carré was created in the 1930s by head bartender Walter Bergeron (pictured) at the Hotel Monteleone in New Orleans, who was seeking an alternative to the trademarked Sazerac. Bergeron named it after the French phrase meaning “old square,” which referred to the French Quarter.
It’s a short, slow sipper that begins with equal parts of rye whiskey, Cognac, and sweet vermouth. Not one, but two bitters are added; plus, a splash of a classic herbal liqueur to give it even more dimension. It’s a slightly sweet, slightly spicy, warming concoction with subtle herbal, citrus, and smoky nuances. It’s similar to a Manhattan but more complex thanks to the Cognac, Bénédictine, and two kinds of bitters. It is truly a classic cocktail and one of the signature drinks of New Orleans.
The recipe for Vieux Carré was first printed in the 1937 edition of Famous New Orleans Drinks and how to Mix ‘Em” and was initially exceedingly popular. But, as time when on, the cocktail did fall out of favor for a number of decades and slip into relative obscurity. All that changed, however, with the recent resurgence of interest in classic cocktails and rye whiskey. Thanks to skillful bartenders and the availability of fine ingredients, Vieux Carré is once again on every cocktail enthusiast’s list of truly great libations.
As cocktail guru Tom Macy once remarked, “If you love a Manhattan or Old Fashioned, the Vieux Carré is the next drink to add to your rotation. Essentially a Manhattan with a few additions that make it something entirely its own. There are several ingredients to collect, which make this a tougher drink to execute, but the effort is well worth it.”
The ingredients and directions are noted below…
Ingredients:
1ounce Rye Whiskey
1ounce Cognac
1ounce Sweet Vermouth
1-2 dashes Angostura Bitters
1-2 dashes Peychaud’s Bitters
½ ounce Bénédictine
Lemon Twist or Cherry Garnish
Directions:
1, Add the Rye Whiskey, Cognac, Sweet Vermouth, Bénédictine, and Bitters into a mixing glass with ice & stir until well-chilled.
- Strain into a rocks glass over fresh ice or a cocktail glass.
- Garnish with a cherry or lemon twist, or both.
This is the original recipe. However, if you would prefer your Vieux Carré on the drier side, amp up just a bit on the rye whiskey and cut back on the sweet vermouth.
Cheers!
Be Safe & Stay Well
TAD
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SIGNAE, aka Cesarini Sartori Winery, is a family-run estate located in the landlocked Umbria region of central Italy, just north of the historic village of Assisi, the birthplace of St. Francis. The winery focuses on crafting organic wines, specializing in Sagrantino, a low-yielding red wine grape that is indigenous to the region. Luciano, the head of the Cesarini family is passionate about the health properties of Sagrantino – which was recently noted to contain some of the highest polyphenol (antioxidants) levels of any red wine – and his daughter, Alice, is working to promote this important varietal, which is still little known outside the region or Italy.
The wine I tasted recently, however, Signae Rossobastardo 2019, is a good deal less lethal on the palate than you might imagine. That’s because the Sagrantino is blended with a smooth combo of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sangiovese. Produced from grapes grown in the territory of the municipality of Gualdo Cattaneo, it is a cooperative combination of modern technology and traditional winemaking and Umbrian wine culture. The wine was such a success that Luciano Cesarini named the wine after his birthplace.
must endure the onerous rigors of unpacking/packing only once. Also, however – and certainly not a minor consideration – is the fact that you need not worry about the possible consequences of indulging in a wee bit too much vino over dinner, as the comfort of your stateroom is just a step or two away.
Silversea is obviously intent upon providing a more sophisticated/upscale environment for its passengers, especially during dinner services, as it spells out the preferred proper dress code – casual, informal, formal – in its daily bulletins. During the several “formal” evenings, for example, ladies are expected to wear either cocktail dresses or pantsuits; for gentlemen, tuxedos, dinner jackets, or dark suits & ties are considered de rigueur (Pictured: Silver Whisper’s Bar, traditional gathering place for preprandial libations).
sparkling chandeliers (pictured). The Restaurant offers a traditional breakfast menu; lunch features appetizers, soups, pastas, hearty salads, wraps, carving du jour, entrées, and an Asian specialty. Dinner is more comprehensive, with “formal” nights offering an array of possibilities. Guests can expect a suggested four-course menu showcasing a particular country, special evening recommendations, fresh fish & meats, and vegetarian options. And, although the onboard cuisine generally had its ups and downs, The Restaurant – which had significantly more ups than downs – proved to be our favorite haunt for dinner.
Cream Sauce, my dining partner with Shrimp Salad. Both were excellent. Other winners included Study of Artichokes, Velouté of Tomatoes, Chef’s Salad with Mandarin Orange Dressing, Spring Rolls, Stockfish (Cod) Croquettes, Pear & Blue Cheese Salad, and the spectacular Fantasia of Salmon (pictured) that was as photogenic as it was delicious. There was an occasional clinker – like the Welsh Rarebit that needed more cheese, or the ho-hum take on Foie Gras – but, for the most part, starters were definite high points.
Raspberry Mousse, Lemon Meringue Tart, Orange Cake with Mandarin Orange Ice Cream, Rice Pudding with Vanilla Ice Cream and Blueberry Almond Tart proved to be marvelous conclusions to our evenings at table and feasts for the eye as well as the palate. Without doubt, however, for true dessert addicts, the pièce de résistance was the incomparable “Death by Chocolate Buffet” (pictured) served up in the ship’s Panorama Lounge. Kudos to the pastry chef.
prominent. As I mentioned above, our first dinner onboard began with two first-rate dishes, Asparagus Ravioli in Cream Sauce and Shrimp Salad, respectively. Unfortunately, these two excellent efforts were followed by a so-so Corvina, a white-fleshed fish that is similar to sea bass. Like the majority of items that emerge from Silver Whisper’s kitchens, this one was beautifully presented… but it was also totally devoid of flavor. Conversely, the very next evening, the kitchen served up an absolutely superb Beef Bourguignon (pictured), which was thoroughly enjoyed.
minds…” It is, however, the absolute sine qua non of a successful restaurant. And it is precisely at this point that Silversea’s main dining room – and numerous other floating eateries – seem to fall short. There is absolutely no question that Silver Whisper’s kitchen, for example, turned out a number of excellent entrées: Their Yellow Stuffed Pepper with risotto topped with mozzarella and tomato sauce was absolutely first-rate. Ditto the Scallops of Veal, Wiener Schnitzel, Shepherd’s Pie, Grilled Branzino, and Spiced Lamb Cubes Rosh (pictured), a superlative Indian recipe… But then… the Swordfish on a Bed of Spinach was woefully overcooked, and the Steak & Ale Pie (which is similar to the aforementioned Shepherd’s Pie but also sports a piecrust) was as dry as a bone and in desperate need of a resuscitating gravy infusion.
begin with a glass of Prosecco, complimentary charcuterie (pictured) & bread basket. House-made pasta may be ordered as either an appetizer or entrée. Main courses include such items as King Prawns with Cognac and Grilled Duck Breast. Desserts showcase Gelati, Italian Cheeses, and Chocolate Molten Cake.
with Pesto. Other high points included: Mushroom Tart; Scallops of Veal; Grilled Branzino; La Nostre Conserve, tuna-stuffed bell peppers, porcini mushrooms, and Tomino cheese; Penne all’ Amatriciana, homemade penne pasta, pig’s cheeks, fresh tomato sauce, Parmigiano Reggiano, garlic, and red pepper; and a superlative Lasagna alla Bolognese, lasagna pasta, Bolognese sauce, Bechamel sauce, Parmigiano Reggiano, and fresh herbs (pictured).
But the real stars of the show were the beautifully prepared and presented desserts. If you want to keep it simple, for example, there’s Baklava accompanied by a scoop of Gelato, which is made onboard, by the way. Then, of course, there’s the Cannoli – crispy fried pastry tubes with ricotta cheese, pistachios, candied fruit, and chocolate chips – and the decadently rich Cream Puffs. Nothing, however, quite comes close to the incomparably deliciously Limoncello Cake (pictured). Downright addictive, it simply bewitches the taste buds. Not to be missed.
may choose from sandwiches, salads, burgers, hot dogs, and grilled fish specials. On sea days, poolside lunch buffets are enhanced with live music.
But take heart, the best is yet to come, as desserts are a high point. And, as you would probably surmise from the alfresco ambience and unpretentious cookery, they tend to be on the casual side. We sampled the Cheesecake and Apple Tart with Cinnamon Ice Cream (pictured), and both were sublime in their simplicity – but feasts for the eye as well as the palate.
In their assessment of La Dame, Cruise Critic offered up only two negative assessments… First of all, they noted that the wines matched up with what was available in The Restaurant… but thought – as I do – that they should have been a “notch above.” Secondly… the real bone of contention is a flaw in the seating design. The tables, arranged in a circle and often occupied by all couples, are situated in such a way so that everyone’s back is to the wall, staring into the center of the room at other couples, rather than facing each other. The suggestion has been made – and I think it is certainly worthy of consideration – that a more intimate arrangement needs to be forthcoming. As you may observe from the photo above, the setting isn’t terribly romantic. Perhaps screens between tables and the addition of flowers and/or candlelight would add considerably to the ambience.
The Choice is one of those restaurants that appears to be hiding in plain sight. When we first considered dining there – noting that it had received very positive reviews on Social-Media – we were surprised to find that no one of our acquaintance had even heard of the place, let alone dined there. And yet… when our party of three arrived for a recent Wednesday evening reservation, we found the 50-seat dining room full and joyously overflowing.
Matters piscatorial – both preludes and main courses – play a major role in Mr. Hyvel’s repertoire. His starters, for instance, range from cold items such as Yellowtail Sashimi, Tuna Tartare, and Lobster Ceviche to a comforting tomato-y Fish Soup awash with shrimp & scallops. Among his starters, however, the chef’s magnum opus proved to be his extraordinary Scallops in Shredded Filo (pictured). The rich & meaty deep-fried bivalves arrived at table accompanied by a zippy wasabi cream sauce… and were simply irresistible.
My dining partners decided upon the Halibut and Branzino, respectively. The former was companioned by mushrooms and finished with a green pepper dressing; the latter was presented with creamy mushrooms, crisp potato balls, and a side of fennel dressing. My Wild Caught Striped Bass (pictured) was a particular treat, as the filet was wrapped in a crispy potato crust, served on a bed of creamy leeks, and splashed with a delicate red wine sauce.
Just be prepared… Dinner at The Choice is not a cheap date. Those aforementioned highly-touted Scallops in Shredded Filo, for instance, will set you back $18.00. Lobster Ceviche goes for $28.00; with appetizers topping out at $32.00 for the Pan-Seared Foie Gras. Entrée-wise, that Butter-Poached Lobster will put a sizeable $60.00 dent in your wallet, while all finny fare goes for either $35.00 or $40.00. Meats are $35.00 per, with Chicken Teriyaki occupying the menu’s bottom rung at $28.00. Even those rather nondescript downhome desserts will set you back $12.00 per.
For your quaffing pleasure: Wines tasted at our wine club gathering on Saturday, January 14, 2023…
Among the little-known grape varieties of Greece, Assyrtiko has been by far the most popular among Greek whites. Although originating on the Island of Santorini, it is now planted across mainland Greece (as well as in parts of Australia), becoming one of the most important native varietals. It produces mainly dry white wines, some of which are aged in oak. Assyrtiko is one of those rare white grape varieties that can grow in hot and dry climatic conditions while, at the same time, keep the high alcohol in perfect balance with its crisp acidity.
The vineyards of the Nasiakos families lie in the heart of the two largest and most important wine regions of Greece. One is in Mantinia in Arcadia; the other – the highest point on Neméa – in Corinth, Peloponnese. Leonidas Nasiakos is the viticulturalist, winemaker, and producer of the wines that bear his name. Under the Nasiakos label, 6,500 cases of wine are produced from the indigenous appellation varietals such as Moschofilero and Agiorgitiko.
The Spicy Asian Brussels Sprouts embellished with peanuts, shishito peppers, and sweet chili sauce always make an excellent starter… ditto the superb Butternut Squash Bisque. Entrée-wise, the Java Pork Tenderloin with smashed yams, mango salsa, black bean sauce, and maple jus remains a house favorite. However, in my opinion, the Simply Grilled Salmon (pictured) steals the show. Presented with a fresh house salad, the seductive orange-ginger vinaigrette proved to be not only a marvelous dressing for the greenery but also a wonderful complement to the salmon itself, transforming a relatively straightforward dish into an utterly sublime presentation.
A scant moment after you’re seated, the tortilla chips and salsa hit the table… But be sure to team them up with the benchmark Guacamole, served in a traditional molcajete (the Mexican version of mortar and pestle). Other highly recommended starters include Queso Fundido – a type of party dish often compared to a cheese fondue – and an incomparable Quinoa Salad (pictured), a delightful amalgam of pumpkin seeds, avocado, raisins, cherry tomatoes, cucumber, and Queso fresco splashed with an enticing lemon vinaigrette dressing. Simply not to be missed. The tacos here – all served on homemade corn tortillas – are definitely a cut above. Choose your five favorites, which constitute the Taco Tasting Platter, and feel free to share.
Tucked away in the original carriage house of the Wentworth Mansion, Circa 1886, so notes their website, “evokes the romance and Old-World charm of historic downtown Charleston.” But the restaurant offers diners infinitely more than alluring ambience, as it is consistently ranked as one of the finest in the city, as Executive Chef Marc Collins (pictured) works with local farmers & fishermen to create an innovative seasonal menu that takes Lowcountry cuisine to new culinary heights.
To start things off, be sure to go for the Arancini al Fromaggio (pictured). A staple of Sicilian cuisine, Arancini are Italian rice balls that are stuffed with mozzarella (and, occasionally, other items such as green peas and ham), coated with bread crumbs, deep fried, and served with a marinara dipping sauce. If the kitchen has a claim to fame, it is undoubtedly their pastas. Stick with them and you can’t go wrong.
Dining at Davio’s is a good news/bad news proposition. First the good: The cuisine is first-rate on all counts. During my most recent visit, the six diners in our party (three couples) were completely satisfied with the gastronomic goings-on. Of special note was the incomparable Sautéed Veal Tenderloin (pictured). It remains, without doubt, one of the best veal presentations it has ever been my pleasure to ingest. And the same may be said for the outstanding Atlantic Salmon, which arrived at table on a seabed of sautéed spinach surrounded by a pool of warm eggplant caponata.
Visited on our way to Bar Harbor, this super-casual restaurant/market combo features fresh, local & sustainable species of fish & shellfish, Maine craft beers, wine & cocktails, and local snacks & art. The setting is unpretentiously utilitarian, but the welcome is warm and the regional cuisine carefully & lovingly prepared.
Acclaimed chef Nena Ismyrnoglou (pictured), who spent several years at the famous Estiatorio Milos in New York City before returning to her homeland, is the power behind the stove. A committed connoisseur of Greek cuisine – but also one of the country’s most highly-regarded chefs – she infuses traditionally loved recipes with her own unique innovative flair.
To start things off, nothing quite measures up to the incomparable Lebanese Mezza (pictured), a shared platter comprised of a host of traditional appetizers. Of particular note among the special entrées are the Shawarma, cuts of spiced & marinated lamb, chicken, turkey, beef & veal sliced wafer-thin from a vertical rotisserie. Generally, only two desserts are offered – traditional Homemade Baklava and a decadent Bread Pudding – and both are well worth the extra calories.
The burgers here are nothing short of spectacular. Without doubt, the best I have tasted anywhere. They range from the Bigger Mac – an obvious takeoff on McDonald’s – through the Mushroom, Bacon Blue, Phenomenal, which includes a fried egg along with a load of other accompaniments, and culminates with the Gatsby (pictured), ½ lb. American Wagyu patty, Clothbound cheddar, slab bacon, grilled onion, ancho ketchup, brioche roll, the most expensive burger on the menu.
No visit to Athens would be complete without a romantic evening at the GB Roof Garden Restaurant & Bar. Located on the 8th floor of the Hotel Grande Bretagne, this enchanting space offers unparalleled views of the City of Athens and the Acropolis with the Parthenon – a former temple dedicated to the goddess Athena – majestically perched upon it.
Replete with spiffy retro black-and-white tile floors and diminutive cozy bar, this little bohemian pub is every local’s favorite eatery, serving up one of Reykjavik’s most creative menus… And that menu changes seasonally – seemingly in the blink of an eye – with favorite tapas-style dishes reappearing in new forms, depending upon the mood of the kitchen and dictates of the weather.
Small plates included: Cod Crudo adorned with diced apples, crumbled rye bread, and garden cress and splashed a light vinaigrette; Broccoli rubbed in chili oil before cooking and seasoned with a subtle hint of sweetness, salted lemon, and mint; and Celeriac Cannelloni stuffed with cheese and topped with diced potatoes and green tomatoes. The one shared large plate – the high point of the evening – was the spectacular Eggplant Tempura splashed with puttanesca sauce and a sprinkling of fresh basil (pictured).
Volvér, which was closed for an extended period due to Covid, has now reopened. So, should you be contemplating a visit to the Kimmel Center and seeking a suitable pre-event dining venue, this fine restaurant should once again, be at the very top of your list of possibilities.
Located just around the corner from the hotel’s reception area, the Winter Garden City Lounge is an exquisite, beautifully appointed refuge where guests may partake of European breakfast, or a light lunch or dinner, accompanied by the soothing notes of live classical piano. The restaurant also serves afternoon tea, exclusively curated by its pastry & executive chefs, offering tea connoisseurs the finest selection of sweet and savory delicacies.
I tasted an interesting array of wines in 2022, from a variety of different countries. Of those, the 8 listed below – 4 white; 4 red – are particularly recommended.
2020 Almondo Roero Arneis Bricco delle Cilliegie (Italy): Roero is a small viticultural area in the northeast corner of the province of Cuneo in the Piedmont region of northwest Italy. The area’s claim to fame is Arneis, a fragrant pear-perfumed white wine grape that is responsible for 77% of the vineyards’ plantings. Indigenous to Roero, Arneis has been cultivated here since the 1400s.
2018 Boutari Assyrtiko Santorini (Greece): The Boutari family has been producing wines from Greek varietals since 1879. Since the very first vintage, the family has become a pioneer of Greek wines, now crafting wines from six different regions, utilizing grapes that are grown nowhere else in the world.
2019 Cambria Katherine’s Vineyard Chardonnay (California): Family-owned and sustainably-farmed, the Cambria Estate Winery, is a remarkable property, with each wine bearing the Cambria name grown, produced, and bottled on the estate. With vineyards dating back to the early 1970s, Cambria Estate helped to establish California’s Santa Maria Valley as a world-class wine producing region.
2021 Essay Wines Chenin Blanc (South Africa): The term “Essay” is a play on words, as it refers to the popular abbreviation for South Africa (SA)… But the word also implies “assemblage,” or the blending of elements to create a whole that is greater than the sum of its individual parts.
2019 A.A. Badenhorst The Curator Red Blend (South Africa): A.A. Badenhorst Family Wines is a small wine producer in the Swartland, a large wine region about 40 miles north of Cape Town in the Western Cape. Former Rustenberg winemaker Adi Badenhorst and his cousin, Hein, bought the Kalmoesfontein Farm in 2008. The farm has 69 acres of mostly old bush vines, planted in the 1950s and 60s on granite soils. Chenin Blanc, Cinsault, and Grenache make up the majority of the vineyard, with other grape varieties brought in from other vineyards in the area.
2018 Domaine Touzot Bourgogne Pinot Noir (France): The Touzot family domaine is located in the northernmost part of France’s Mâcon region of Burgundy. Their 209+ acres of vineyards are planted with 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir.
2019 Feudo Montoni “Lagnusa” Nero d’Avola (Sicily): Feudo Montoni was first established in the 1400s. The Sireci family has run the property since the late 1800s and it is now in the hands of the third generation. The name of the vineyard is Lagnusa, which means “that which is lazy and produces small quantities” in Sicilian. Today, of course, we know that a vineyard that produces less quantity also creates higher quality. The 100% Nero d’Avola grapes are hand-harvested and fermented with indigenous yeasts in concrete tanks where they then mature for twenty months. The wine sees another four months in barrel before bottling.
2019 Nasiakos Agiorgitiko Red Wine (Greece): The vineyards of the Nasiakos families lie in the heart of the two largest and most important wine regions of Greece. Leonidas Nasiakos is the viticulturalist, winemaker, and producer of the wines that bear his name. Under the Nasiakos label, 6,500 cases of wine are produced from the indigenous appellation varietals such as Moschofilero and Agiorgitiko.
“A gastronomic punchline…” is how Esquire once referred to the Dark Ages of London’s dubious dining scene. Indeed… compared to Paris, Rome, and other European culinary destinations, London has never enjoyed a particularly lofty reputation.
The Ivy (1-5 West Street): Located directly across the street from St. Martin’s Theatre, The Ivy, a West End institution for over a century, enjoys the well-deserved reputation as a haunt for London thespians. Or, as the Guardian euphemistically described it, “The Ivy is like a safari park in which the rare and exotic creatures are nurtured.”
Entrées ran the gamut… from roasted & grilled items such as Slow Cooked Rabbit Leg & Spring Lamb Cutlets to miso-marinated Black Cod and a rather pricey Dover Sole, either grilled or meunière. My dining partner and I zeroed in on two traditional items: Deep-Fried Haddock & Chips and Shepherd’s Pie, respectively. Both were excellent. We then concluded dinner by sharing a first-rate Apricot and Bakewell Tart. The absolute show-stopper, however, was our shared appetizer, the Twice-Baked Cheese Soufflé (pictured). Nothing short of extraordinary.
The Cinnamon Club (30-32 Great Smith Street): Sequestered in the former home of the old Westminster Library, just around the corner from Parliament and the Abbey, the Cinnamon Club isn’t all that easy to find (there is no exterior sign pinpointing the restaurant’s location). However, if you enjoy fine Indian cuisine, it is definitely worth the effort.
We both decided upon the three-course menu priced at 35 pounds per person (plus beverages, tax & gratuity). My dining partner began with the Masala Corn Kebabs, Corn and Ginger Soup (pictured); I opted for the Chicken Seekh Tawa Masala (minced chicken in a spicy sauce) with Sheermal Bread (saffron-flavored traditional flatbread).
Entrées presented us with several intriguing possibilities… The Chettinadu-Style Duck Leg Curry with Pilau Rice (characterized by a variety of dark spices) sounded very interesting – especially to my dining partner who always enjoys this particular fowl – but was ultimately dismissed as a bit too over-the-top for lunch. We both were quite tempted by the Pan-Seared Pollock Fillet (similar to cod), Yellow Lentils with Coconut, Bitter Melon Chutney, but somehow just weren’t in the mood for fish. The Kadhai Vegetables (made in a kadai, Indian wok, this dish is a medley of onions, tomatoes, bell peppers, and other assorted vegetables combined with spices and cream) certainly appealed to me, but… The bottom line: We both choose the Cauliflower & Berkswell Cheese Parcel (similar in flavor to Pecorino & Manchego), Tomato Fenugreek Sauce (pictured), which was absolutely delicious.
Desserts, which are generally not given a second thought in most Indian restaurants, were just as up to the mark as their predecessors. My dining partner’s Royal Malai Kulfi presented with caramelized quinoa and raspberry crisp, for example, was excellent. Malai Kulfi is basically considered Indian ice cream, although it is somewhat denser in texture, similar to that of frozen custard. But even better, in my opinion, was the extraordinarily delicious – and photogenic – Mango Meringue Tart with spiced puffed rice and smoked berry sorbet (pictured).
Turnips (43, Borough Market): Tucked under the historic arches of London’s iconic Borough Market, Turnips is a greengrocer selling high quality fruit and vegetables from independent producers across Britain, Europe and beyond… But it is also an haute cuisine restaurant offering patrons seasonally-inspired creative modern dishes featuring world-class vegetables.
While sipping glasses of white wine and taking in the seemingly ceaseless flow of human flora & fauna, my dining partner and I were treated to such remarkable luncheon creations as Wild Mushroom Croquette with mozzarella, Sicilian & Provence Outdoor Tomato garnished with walnut & gorgonzola (pictured together), and Britany Cauliflower crowned with Australian Black Truffle. All three were as photogenic as they were deliriously delicious. Haute cuisine… smack dab in the middle of the bustling Borough Market… Who would’ve thunk it?!
Galvin La Chapelle (35 Spital Square): Located in St. Boltolph’s Hall, a 19th century former school chapel just off London’s Bishopsgate Road, the setting is, indeed, awe-inspiring… Vaulted ceilings, massive pillars, and grand buttresses dominate the scene, all complemented by dark woods and leather furnishings. The menu, the work of chef brothers Chris and Jeff Galvin, artfully combines classic French cookery with exceptional British ingredients and has collected a Michelin star along the way.
But on to the food, which, like the service, proved to be something of a mixed bag… My dining companion and I both started with the Foie Gras Terrine with black garlic, caramel vinegar, and fermented cherry (pictured). The accoutrements were certainly interesting, but the foie gras itself lacked that excitingly rich, buttery, and delicate depth of flavor that one has every right to expect from this particular dish. The version presented here was, unfortunately, surprisingly bland… and a not-so-subtle hint that form was destined to triumph over substance.
… My companion’s Herdwick Lamb (pictured), for instance. The Herdwick is a breed of domestic sheep that is native to the Lake District in northwest England and is known for its uniquely flavored lamb and mutton. Once again, while the presentation – which included Cantábrico anchovy (made from Spanish anchovies, sustainably fished during spring in the Bay of Biscay, prized for their quality, meaty fillets, and perfect balance of olive oil, salt and fish) and courgette (zucchini bush) flower stuffed with soft cheese – was picture perfect, flavor was conspicuous by its absence.
On the other hand, my Barbecued Monkfish (pictured) appeared positively simplistic by comparison. Proving, once again, that matters piscatorial are best served by those accompaniments that intrude the least. In this case, a garnish of baby gem lettuce & sea herbs… However, it was an ethereal clam velouté that provided the pièce de résistance. Velouté is French for “velvety”; and it proved to be the perfect complement to this delicious denizen of the deep.
Desserts also received high marks. My Provence Peach Soufflé, for example, was as light as a feather on the palate and ingeniously spiked with Piment d’ Espelette (chilli peppers from the Basque region of France and Spain and named after the village of Espelette in France’s Nive Valley), Campari (an Italian bitter liqueur), and hint of orange. A unique combination of flavors, to say the least.
“London is inexhaustible,” as Frommer’s so quaintly puts it, “you could tour it for months and barely get to know it.”
Since the coronation of William the Conqueror in 1066, all coronations of English and British monarchs have occurred in Westminster Abbey (with three exceptions: Edward V, Edward VIII, and possibly Mary I). Sixteen royal weddings have been held at the here since 1100.
Buried in the nave are playwright Ben Jonson, Isaac Newton, Charles Darwin, and the latest addition, theoretical physicist Stephen Hawking.
Buckingham Palace: Located in the City of Westminster, Buckingham Palace is the royal residence and administrative headquarters of the monarch of the United Kingdom. Originally known as Buckingham House, the building at the center of the palace was a large townhouse built for the Duke of Buckingham in 1703 on a site that had been a private residence for over 150 years. It was acquired by King George III in 1761 for Queen Charlotte and then became known as the Queen’s House. During the 19th century, it was enlarged by architects John Nash and Edward Blore, who constructed wings around a central courtyard. Buckingham Palace became the London residence of the British monarch on the accession of Queen Victoria in 1837.
The last major structural additions were made in the late 19th and early 20th centuries; these included the East Front, which contains the balcony on which the royal family traditionally appears to greet crowds. During the Second World War, a German bomb destroyed the palace chapel. The Queen’s Gallery was then built on the site and opened to the public in 1962 to exhibit works of art from the royal collection.
One of the most interesting works, at least from this writer’s perspective, was the Self-Portrait by Flemish artist Peter Paul Rubens (1577-1640). This painting has an interesting history, but I will spare the behind-the-scenes drama by simply saying that in 1621 Rubens sent a (now lost) painting, The Lion Hunt, to England, not realizing that it was intended for Charles, Prince of Wales (who would become King Charles I). It was returned after being recognized as a “studio work” (finished by Ruben’s assistants). This Self-Portrait was subsequently sent as an apology two years later. Charles I clearly admired this painting and hung it alongside self-portraits of Van Dyck and Daniel Mytens in the breakfast chamber at Whitehall. This room was located next to the bedchamber and would likely have been seen by the King on a daily basis.
Borough Market: Following our visit to Buckingham Palace, we caught a cab to the famous Borough Market, a wholesale and retail market hall located in Southwark, London.
There are many reasons to visit the Borough Market; however, for my traveling companion, an aficionado of fine teas, the main drawing card was a visit to Tea2You, the best loose leaf tea seller in the United Kingdom. It was founded and is owned & operated by Ratan Mondal, a native of Kolkata, India, and a specialist purveyor of the finest Darjeeling varieties from the best tea gardens of the Indian sub-continent.
A final note: When it comes to eating and drinking, there are numerous options in and around the market. Quite by accident I stumbled upon Turnips – which I subsequently learned had been a mainstay in the market for over thirty years – where we enjoyed an absolutely delicious lunch of small plates (a complete review will be posted in an article to follow).
The Courtauld Institute was founded in 1932 through the philanthropic efforts of industrialist and art collector Samuel Courtauld, diplomat and collector Lord Lee of Fareham, and art historian Sir Robert Witt. The original collection was begun by Samuel Courtauld who, in the same year, presented an extensive collection of paintings. He also made further gifts later in the 1930s and a bequest in 1948.
In 1978, the Courtauld received the Princes Gate Collection of Old Master paintings and drawings formed by Count Antoine Seilern, which rivals the Samuel Courtauld Collection in importance. It includes paintings by Bernardo Daddi, Robert Campin, Bruegel, Quentin Matsys, Van Dyck and Tiepolo… But the collection is strongest in the works of Peter Paul Rubens.
Rubens was considered the most influential artist of the Flemish Baroque tradition. His commissioned works were mostly historical paintings, which included religious and mythological subjects and hunt scenes. He also painted a variety of portraits, especially of friends, and self-portraits (as the one noted above).
Following a 12-day cruise from Reykjavik, Iceland, we disembarked at Greenwich, England, were transported to London, and checked into the Savoy Hotel.
Guests who have graced the Savoy’s grand, wood-paneled lobby with its iconic checkered floor include Queen Elizabeth, Claude Monet, George Gershwin, Frank Sinatra, John Wayne, Laurence Olivier, Marilyn Monroe, Humphrey Bogart, Elizabeth Taylor, Enrico Caruso, Audrey Hepburn, Babe Ruth, and Bob Dylan, who filmed one of his music videos behind the hotel. Winston Churchill often took his cabinet to lunch at the hotel.
The Savoy’s 200 luxury guest rooms and 67 suites are all individually designed and decorated in either Edwardian or Art Deco style; and many afford breathtaking views over the river Thames and of London’s most famous riverside landmarks (pictured: the view from our guest room).
As transatlantic travel became more popular in the late 19th and early 20th centures, many American bars opened throughout London. The term “American Bar” refers to a bar serving mixed or “American” style drinks, more commonly known as cocktails. The American Bar at the Savoy is the longest surviving of these bars, and one of the most iconic cocktail bars in the world. It has been named World’s Best Bar at Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards 2018 and World’s 50 Best Bars in 2017. Most recently, it was named one of the “The World’s 44 Best Hotel Bar’s” by the Forbes Travel Guide.
After an evening at the theater, my traveling companion and I stopped by the American for a late night snack that included such gastronomic possibilities as Oysters, Caviar, Coffee & Cupcake, and a New York Deli Platter. We settled on the Artisan Cheese Board (pictured), which proved to be an excellent choice.
One Final Note: Simpsons-in-the-Strand is one of London’s oldest tradtional English restaurants. After a modest beginning in 1828 as a smoking room and coffee house, Simpson’s achieved dual fame around 1850 for its traditional English food, particularly roast meats, but also as the most important venue in Britain for chess in the 19th century. Chess ceased to be a feature after Simpson’s was purchased by the Savoy hotel group of companies at the end of the century. However, as a purveyor of traditional English food, Simpson’s has remained a celebrated dining venue into the 21st century. English author P.G. Wodehouse once referred to it as “a restful temple of food.” Since 2005 Simpson’s has been owned and managed by Fairmont Hotels and Resorts.