Vernick Fish
Comcast Technology Center
1 North 19th Street
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
(215) 419-5055
I must confess, I entertained decidedly mixed emotions about dining at Vernick Fish. Why…? Because just a little over a month before this writing, my dining partner and I had enjoyed a truly memorable luncheon at the Sanctum Sanctorum of piscatorial pleasures: New York City’s Le Bernardin… And, once you’ve dined in the clouds, sometimes it’s difficult to come back down to earth again.
That being said, however, while Vernick Fish is certainly not Le Bernardin (nor does it attempt to be), there is absolutely no question that Chef Greg Vernick’s newest brasserie-like seafood enterprise acquits itself with considerable aplomb.
The dining arrangements are somewhat unusual but also quite pleasant. The room is large (142 seats) and bustling; but because of its length and narrow width, you don’t feel crowded or closed in. Tables stretch in a leisurely array past the zinc-top bar and open kitchen, eventually spilling into the space at the rear that is generally reserved for private parties. The piped-in classic rock may not be to everyone’s taste, but it certainly adds an energetic note to the proceedings.
The service also deserves mention. Our server was attentive without being annoyingly solicitous… he made eye contact with all three members of our dining party… and he was obviously intimately acquainted with the menu.
But on to the food… which titillates the palate under four main headings – Raw, Small Plates, Large Plates, and Desserts – plus a number of side dishes.
The Raw category offers a host of intriguing possibilities. In addition to East Coast Oysters with house accompaniments, you will also find such 
items as King Salmon Crudo companioned by roasted pineapple, lime & mint; Snapper Ceviche spruced up with coconut broth, red onion & lime leaf; and Tuna Tartare on sourdough garnished with avocado and Fresno Chili Oil (pictured); which, although listed as an appetizer, a member of our party thoroughly enjoyed as his main course. And at this juncture, perhaps, a few words of explanation are in order. What, for example, is the difference between Crudo, Ceviche and Tartare?
Crudo is the Italian and Spanish word for “raw,” and it refers to uncooked dishes – usually fish, shellfish or meat – adorned with some sort of seasoning. Ceviche is made up of raw seafood that is marinated in citrus juice, which cures or literally “cooks” it. Tartare is another type of Crudo that consists of raw meat or seafood that is chopped and bound with sauce, dressing, and/or other seasonings. Like Carpaccio, Tartare is defined by the shape in which the raw fish is sliced: Carpaccio is thinly sliced, whereas Tartare is usually minced or diced.
Among the small plates, you discover such worthwhile starters as Spaghetti with Blue Crab and Crispy Octopus, along with a bow to landlubbers: 
Endive & Baby Gem Salad splashed with tarragon vinaigrette… But, as far as our party was concerned, the Marinated Shrimp on a seabed of shredded napa cabbage & Thai basil sprinkled with peanuts appeared to be the star of the show… That is, until the incredible Broiled Oysters Philadelphia (pictured) hit the table. Gently caressed by breadcrumbs seasoned with Genoa salami & provolone cheese and presented in a cast-iron tray usually reserved for escargot, they were a superb feast for both eye and palate.
When it came to the large plates, it wasn’t long before overchoice (also known as choice overload) – a term first introduced by Alvin Toffler in his 1970 book Future Shock – reared its ugly head. Not that there were too many possibilities… but all five of the seafood options looked so good that it was difficult to come to a decision.
As I mentioned above, the other gentleman in our party opted for the appetizer of Tuna Tartare as his main course. My dining partner thought about the Blackened Sea Scallops, but she decided to pass… I briefly considered the Panko-Crusted Swordfish with Korean/kimchi flair but did likewise.
We also considered sharing the Whole Roasted Branzino, but the tomato & watermelon salad, yogurt & pine nut relish didn’t ring any bells. Dover 
Sole, a special unlisted on the printed menu, is always a favorite; but since we had recently enjoyed this delicacy at our above-mentioned luncheon at Le Bernardin, we decided to pass on that as well. We finally agreed upon the Grilled Black Sea Bass (pictured). And a very wise choice, I might add. Especially since the accoutrements – tomato sauce, gold bar squash & crispy eggplant – proved to be perfect complements.
The restaurant’s bar turns out some pretty spiffy cocktails; and the bartender obviously knows his stuff, as my Vesper Martini was right on the money. There is also a very nice international wine list… However, the wines by the glass – quality as well as quantity – leave a great deal to be desired. Oregon’s Willamette Valley, for example, produces some excellent pinot noirs… but the Lemelson I tasted was pale & wan and quite weak with regard to flavor as well. And, as if to add insult to injury, the restaurant’s website listed the Willamette Valley as being in Washington State rather than Oregon. Evidently someone’s geography, or so it appears, is just as poor as their oenological knowledge.
If Vernick Fish has a weakness, however, it is surely their desserts – Chocolate Espresso Cake, Key Lime Pie, Marscapone Cheesecake, Peach & 
Almond Tart (pictured) – which are basically standard issue. Were they bad? No… but, given the carefully crafted dishes that had preceded them, we expected a great deal more in the sweet endings department… and it simply was not forthcoming. And this, unfortunately, placed a decidedly negative pall over what – up until this point – had been an extremely rewarding evening at table. I say this because Mr. Vernick would do well to remember that the last thing diners experience within restaurant precincts is likely to be the first thing they remember.
Bon Appétit & Cheers!
TAD
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“Until the 1990s very few wine lovers outside Austria had even heard of Grüner Veltliner.” So writes British wine guru Jancis Robinson. “Today,” she goes on to say, “no self-respecting restaurant wine list, whether in New York or Hong Kong, can afford to be without at least one example of this, Austria’s signature white wine grape.”
lovers. Hopefully, this situation will change significantly, as Grüner is obviously a wine of inherent character and quality… as well as an incredible value for the money. You don’t have to spend a fortune to acquire a very well-made bottle. And it boasts a flavor profile that will appeal to fans of other popular grape varieties as well. Because of its citrus notes and occasional herbaceous quality, it will undoubtedly attract lovers of Sauvignon Blanc; and Pinot Grigio fans will appreciate its lovely texture and ability to pair with a wide range of foods.
Weinviertel region of Austria in the village of Kleinhadersdor, winery Weinrieder specializes in the production of fine white wines. Owner and winemaker Freidrich Rieder and his family are known for their high quality, fruit-driven wines and eisweins.
Valley in California. And, as the winemaker notes, this is a wine that touches both sides of the Grüner spectrum. It is bright, fresh, and vibrant, but also possesses a complex texture and fullness of body characteristic of Edna Valley white wines. There’s less acidity here and definitely more body than in the Weinrieder Grüner noted above. And, to be perfectly honest, having tasted these wines on back-to-back evenings, I much prefer the Edna Valley version.
restaurants. Like its elder siblings, it offers a seasonally-changing, locally-sourced menu that utilizes only healthy, sustainable, and organic ingredients. Additionally, characteristic of establishments of similar ilk – Seasons 52 comes immediately to mind – said menu provides the conscientious diner with a host of other useful information; i.e., most items under 500 calories, non-GMO, extensive Vegetarian, Gluten-Free, and Vegan items. But Harvest also goes the competition one better, noting organic cleaning products, recycled glass counter tops, and consumer fiber menus.
part, that appears to be the case. Even when the joint is jumping, the kitchen carries on with an enviable degree of equanimity.
Flatbread (pictured). Yes, I know… flatbreads have become all the rage of late, popping up on menus – ad infinitum, ad nauseum – from Madagascar to Mumbai. But, trust me, a pear and blue cheese combo is one of those culinary marriages made in heaven… and an absolutely fabulous prelude to any meal.
bibb lettuce, caramelized onion, and tomato on a poppy seed onion roll garnished with a segment of dill pickle. Then we have two Rock Shrimp Tacos (you can add another taco for $7.00) presented with pineapple-cucumber mojito salsa, spicy mayo, pickled red cabbage, tajin (a Mexican chili-lime seasoning blend), guacamole, and baby arugula. The Salmon BLT is another cosmopolitan menu item of late. Finally, the ubiquitous Grilled Chicken Club (pictured with a side of mac & cheese). This version of the old favorite features smoked bacon, baby arugula, tomato, and herbed mayonnaise on naan flatbread.
to go for their entrées, which are significantly more expensive. Not outrageously so… but still pretty hefty. The NY Strip Steak, for example, will put a $47.00 dent in your wallet; Pan-Seared Pacific Halibut, $38.00; Seared U-10 Sea Scallops (pictured), $37.00; even the humble Sesame Chicken will set you back $28.00. Oh, by the way, there are a limited number of entrées offered at lunch… and they are exactly the same price as those that are available at dinner, which, to my way of thinking, is a bit over the top.
But let’s conclude on a positive note… No matter when you may decide to pay a call at Harvest, be sure to try one of their mini desserts. There are times when you just want a touch of sweetness to end a most enjoyable meal, and these diminutive denouements (pictured) – from Key Lime Pie to Carrot Cake to Salted Caramel Chocolate to Peanut Butter Mousse – are simply not to be missed.
Approximately 30,670 acres of vineyards are designated for Bordeaux Supérieur wines. Around 60 million bottles are produced in this area each year. The red wines are, as their name implies, intended to be “superior” to the standard Bordeaux AOC vintages. Therefore, they rely heavily upon Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with, depending upon the producer, smaller amounts of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Carménère… Miniscule amounts of white wine are also produced; but since these wines must be sweet, they do not represent the same level of quality as the red wines.
The Bordeaux Supérieur I’ve been enjoying on a regular basis recently is the 2019 Château Brun Despagne Querre, an enticing blend of 80 percent Merlot and 20 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. Garnering 91 points from James Suckling, this medium-bodied every-day quaffer is lusciously textured, alive with sweet dark fruit, and pure pleasure in the glass… And you don’t have to cellar it for years, waiting for it to mature. No, this hedonistic little beauty is ready to go as is.
leaders in the world of specialty foods via their online sales.
moment of respite and order a creative cocktail to accompany your luncheon or as an afternoon pick-me-up. A Negroni or Boulvardier (Bluecoat Gin/Redemption Bourbon, respectively, Campari, Iris Dorado Vermouth) or, perhaps, a Vesper (Bluecoat Gin, Stateside Vodka, Lillet Blanc), also known as the Vesper Martini. Invented by author Ian Fleming for his iconic British secret agent, James Bond, the cocktail first appeared in Fleming’s Casino Royale, which was published in 1953, and named for the fictional double agent and Bond love-interest Vesper Lynd.
way to go. My dining partner chose a slightly different route with her House of Grilled Cheese sandwich (pictured), which featured Reading Raclette, Taleggio, butter brioche and also a bowl of incredibly delicious San Marzano tomato soup. Another sandwich you might consider – highly recommended by a friend – is the Balsamic Chicken. Sequestered between two slices of toasted ciabatta, the moist marinated breast is aided and abetted by Caciocavallo cheese, roasted red peppers, arugula, basil, slathered with roasted garlic aioli, and accompanied by house-made potato chips.
Reggiano. But the pepper is quite special. Tellicherry peppercorns are considered a highly prized variety of black pepper due to their complex flavors, which include woodsy and citrus notes. And for those who prefer their pasta with a tad more zip, the Spicy Sausage Rigatoni (pictured) – fennel sausage swimming in a savory tomato ragù, sprinkled with parmigiano Reggiano, and topped with rich & creamy Stracciarella cheese – is equally satisfying.
Affogato al Caffè, this coffee-based dessert usually takes the form of a scoop of plain milk-flavored or vanilla gelato or ice cream “drowned” with a shot of hot espresso. The third option is the Chocolate Budino, an Italian pudding made from a milk & egg custard thickened with cornstarch. While similar to American puddings and custards, Budino has a richer, eggier texture, somewhat akin to Mexican flan… On the other hand, their pastry department (pictured) is just a few steps away. If nothing quite appeals, you can always make a quick stop and savor your dessert at home.
Tournelle in Paris. Then in 1986, shortly after receiving a third Michelin star, brother & sister transported their culinary endeavors to midtown Manhattan.
only three months after its debut; and it is the only New York four-star restaurant that has maintained its status for more than three decades (most recently in a review published on February 7, 2023, by Pete Wells). It is a perennial on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, and has also garnered more James Beard Awards than any other New York City restaurant. In 2017, Le Bernardin ranked second on La Liste, a privately published list of the top 1,000 restaurants in the world. In 2018, La Liste ranked it number one. Most recently, in 2023, it was ranked third behind Frantzén (Sweden) and Guy Savoy (France).
As you have undoubtedly surmised, given the above, dining at Le Bernardin will not be an inexpensive proposition. The four-course dinner menu is priced at $198.00 per person (plus beverages, tax & gratuity)… the eight-course chef’s tasting menu, $298.00 per person; $468.00 with wine pairings. And bear something else in mind: This is the hottest restaurant ticket in New York; so, your chances of procuring a dinner reservation lie somewhere between slim and none.
– you know that you’re in good hands… and that the best is yet to come. 
two mignonette sauces (one mild, one spicy), upon which she immediately bestowed her imprimatur. I, on the other hand, went directly for the Tuna (pictured). I know it doesn’t look particularly special; but, trust me, this is the stuff that gastronomic dreams are made of. Yellowfin tuna is pounded into a silky ruby-colored sheet, under which is sequestered a wafer-thin toasted baguette adorned with a generous spreading of foie gras. A marriage of flavors made in heaven. Just one bite was enough to convince me that Pete Wells’ dictum (slightly paraphrased) – “A restaurant like Le Bernardin is run by people who know things that others have yet to learn.” – should be etched in stone.
per person supplemental charge, I can assure you that it was worth every penny. The sole was pan roasted, adorned with crisp green olive rings & toasted almonds, and finished with a subtly seductive sherry wine emulsion.
caramelized rice with white peach sorbet; Carrot “Cupcake,” companioned by vanilla crème fraiche; and Citrus “Madeleine,” comprised of vanilla genoise sponge, lemon mousseline, and summer berries. During our recent visit, my dining companion and I savored such delicious dénouements as Pistachio Praline with Grand Marnier bavarois (Bavarian cream) and Warm Peruvian Chocolate Tart garnished with Tahitian vanilla ice cream (pictured).
very nice fairly reasonably priced wines (for New York, that is) available by the glass. My dining companion, for example, thoroughly enjoyed her 2022 Alzinger Grüner Veltliner from Wachau, Austria. I started with the 2021 Domaine Testut Chablis from Burgundy, France, and then moved on to a rather pricey 2021 Domaine Vincent Latour Meursault. Both were excellent.
The Bottom Line: If you appreciate the unmitigated joys of fine dining, Le Bernardin should definitely be high on your bucket list. Truly an extraordinary experience that is, indeed, worthy of a journey.
a somewhat unusual odyssey, a 21-day cruise that would transport us up the west coast of Africa, making port in several third-world countries, the Canary Islands, and Madeira Island, Portugal, before eventually disembarking in Lisbon.
Portuguese Manueline architecture. Also known as Portuguese late Gothic, it is a sumptuous architectural style originating in the 16th century defined by the use of lavish, themed ornamentation… doorways, columns, and windows encrusted in opulently carved stonework.
lines: one to enter the sanctuary; the other to enter the cloister… and both were formidable. The thought of standing in line for a good hour was not a particularly attractive one… Especially since I knew from our previous visit that we were a scant block away from Pastéis de Belém, Lisbon’s iconic café/bakery specializing in Pastéis de Nata, Portugal’s famous custard tarts (that were, by the way, originally created by Catholic monks in the above-mentioned Jerónimos Monastery sometime just prior to the 18th century). And since we’d been up since the crack of dawn and had not had time for breakfast, the Pastéis was looking better and better. And once our guide actually mentioned the bakery by name and then gave our entire party free rein for an hour and a half, it was a done deal.
And, as noted above, the Pastéis de Nata, those incredible Portuguese custard tarts, are the specialty of the house. They are crunchy and creamy but, thankfully, not too eggy – and downright addictive. There are a number of menu possibilities… You may, for example, enjoy your Pastel de Nata with a glass of port (or wine or beer), if you so desire. But, for my money, coffee is the ideal companion (espresso is even better). The combo is incomparably tasty. And, trust me, it is difficult (if not impossible) to eat just one.
Tower), officially the Tower of Saint Vincent, is a 16th century fortification that served as a point of embarkation and disembarkation for Portuguese explorers and as a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. It was built during the height of the Portuguese Renaissance and is a prominent example of the Portuguese Manueline style, although it incorporates hints of other architectural features. Constructed of ioz limestone (limestone originating in the Lisbon region of Portugal) it is composed of a bastion and four-story tower.
temporary construction during the Portuguese World Exhibition opening in June 1940. It was demolished in June 1943. Between November 1958 and January 1960, the new monument was constructed in cement and rose-tinted stone, and the statues sculpted from limestone excavated from the region of Sintra. Located on the northern bank of the Tagus River, the new project was enlarged from the original 1940 model as part of the commemorations to celebrate the fifth centennial of the death of Henry the Navigator.
across the South Atlantic Ocean. The flight of 5,220 miles departed Lisbon on March 24, 1922, and arrived in Rio de Janeiro 79 days later on June 6, 1922.
catching our morning flight back to the U.S. Despite the fact that this luxurious high-rise was praised by reviewers – 4.5 out of 5 ratings by TripAdvisor and Fodor’s, both of whom noted its popularity with the business/leisure traveling crowd – I would have preferred something a bit less modernistically generic. However, since this had been arranged through the cruise line, there was really no choice.
TripAdvisor – Erva Restaurante & Bar, where Chef Carlos Goncalves, previously at Lisbon’s Ritz Four Seasons, was now holding forth as the power behind the stove. Tucked away on the hotel’s ground floor, Erva certainly looked the part… walls alive with vertical gardens of leafy plants, rustic wood dining tables, leather vintage-style chairs, a semi-open kitchen and, in the evening, subdued lighting casting a romantic aura over the enticingly informal setting.
started things off on a positive note… From there, however, it was downhill. The Baked Sole for Two, filleted tableside, sounded simply wonderful. Unfortunately, the person called upon to perform this delicate operation was not terribly adept. The sole itself was in desperate need of seasoning; and not even the bland-leading-the-bland butter sauce could snatch victory from the jaws of defeat. Anything even approximating flavor was strictly coincidental (pictured: Sole, ready for surgery).
a somewhat unusual odyssey, a 21-day cruise that would transport us up the west coast of Africa, making port in several third-world countries, the Canary Islands, and Madeira Island, Portugal, before eventually disembarking in Lisbon.
province, is located on the northeastern coast of Gran Canaria and is the largest city on the island. Founded in 1478 at the mouth of a ravine, the city was named for the abundance of palm trees, and was the headquarters for the Spanish conquest of Tenerife and La Palma islands, and was later a major supply port for ships bound for Spanish America. The port is also a transportation hub for travel to the Iberian Peninsula.
By the time we reached the lovely waterfront promenade (pictured), Ms. Speedo and her truncated entourage had already disappeared from sight. So, rather than chasing after them in a frustrating game of hide and seek, we took in the beautiful scene – and a few photographs – and returned to the spot where we knew the bus would eventually return. When the guide and her followers reappeared, the woman had not a clue that she had left a sizeable portion of her group behind. Several people were thoroughly pissed… and told her so in no uncertain terms.
We boarded our bus once again and headed for Valle de Agaete, one of the greenest valleys on the island. Our destination was Finca La Laja – Bodega Los Berrazales, a 200-year-old ranch that is both a coffee & tropical fruit plantation and wine cellar.
But I’m somewhat ahead of myself… Preceding the coffee, the ranch also produces Los Berrazales, their award-winning wines. And, following a tour of the bodega (wine cellar), we were treated to a tasting of their five varietals, all of which were quite excellent.
mentioned Las Palmas de Gran Canaria are the co-capitals of the autonomous community of the Canary Islands. The two cities are both home to governmental institutions, such as the offices of the presidency and the ministries. This has been the governmental arrangement since 1927 (Pictured: Auditorio de Tenerife, Santa Cruz).
Mount Teide, which has the highest elevation in Spain, and the highest elevation among all the islands in the Atlantic Ocean. It is also the third-largest volcano in the world, when measured from its base.
mysterious Pirámides de Güímar… The Pyramids of Güímar are six rectangular pyramid-shaped, terraced structures built from lava stone without the use of mortar. They are located in the district of Chacona, part of the town of Güímar. The structures have been dated to the 19th century AD. Standing as high as 39 feet, they may have originally been a byproduct of contemporary agricultural techniques. Similar pyramids have been found in various sites on Tenerife. There were originally nine pyramids in Güímar, only six of which have survived.
In 1990, Thor Heyerdahl became aware of the “Canarian Pyramids” by reading an article written by Francisco Padrón in a Tenerife newspaper. Heyerdahl, a Norwegian adventurer/ethnographer with a background in zoology, botany, and geography, was famous for his 1947 Kon-Tiki expedition in which he sailed 5,000 miles across the Pacific Ocean in a hand-built raft from South America to the Tuamotu Islands. The expedition was designed to demonstrate that ancient people could have made long sea voyages, creating contacts between societies. Heyerdahl made other voyages to demonstrate the possibility of contact between widely separated ancient peoples, specifically the Ra II expedition of 1970, when he sailed from the west coast of Africa to Barbados in a papyrus reed boat.
Together with the islands of Porto Santo and Desertas and the Selvagens – Madeira forms an autonomous region of the country of Portugal. It sits 550 miles west of the Moroccan city of Casablanca… Safe, beautiful and with a balmy climate, this mountainous island is a joy to visit.” And, having just returned from an all-too-brief but exceedingly pleasurable visit to this unique land of enchantment, I could not agree more.
at Reid’s Palace proved to be quite fortuitous for a variety of reasons. First of all, it was but a short hop to Pico dos Barcelos, an observation point at 1,165 feet above sea level with stunning, sweeping views of Funchal, the sea beyond (pictured: taking in the view).
according to some studies, the drink originated in India, where it is known as Panch, which means, literally translated, “five ingredients.” These include arrack – spirits distilled from rice or coconuts – lemon juice, sugar, spice & tea. The first mention of Poncha outside of India was in Madeira, in Câmara De Lobos, a small coastal fishing town where British Prime Minister Winston Churchill used to visit and paint oil images of village scenes. Originally medicinal, the elixir was used by fishermen to soothe throats irritated by sea spray. Today, the drink is often paired with a snack known as tremoços – lupini beans sprinkled with salt and garlic.
imposing position looking out over the Atlantic Ocean surrounded by 10 acres of enchanting tropical gardens (pictured).
Reid’s is particularly known for its tradition of serving afternoon tea on the terrace. Unfortunately, our group was a bit too large for the terrace; however, the dining room was quite cozy, and the service was certainly up to Reid’s high standards… ditto their justly famous and incredibly delicious handmade scones. As an added attraction, the view of our ship docked in nearby Funchal Harbor was simply spectacular (pictured).
Azamara Journey, embarking upon a somewhat unusual odyssey, a 21-day cruise that would transport us up the west coast of Africa, making port in several third-world countries, the Canary Islands, and Madeira Island, Portugal, before eventually disembarking in Lisbon.
land borders with Zambia and Angola to the north, Botswana to the east, and South Africa to the south and east. Although it does not border Zimbabwe, less than 660 feet of the Botswanan right bank of the Zamezi River separates the two countries. Namibia gained independence from South Africa on March 21, 1990. It is a member state of the United Nations, the Southern African Development Community, the African Union, and the Commonwealth of Nations. (Pictured: Pelican Point Lighthouse, Walvis Bay)
of plains & dunes that stretches along the country’s entire coastline… And its sand dunes, created by the strong onshore winds, are the highest in the world. It was here that our excursion – Living Desert by 4 x 4 – took us. We had been warned numerous times that many of our sojourns to third world African countries would not be up to first-class tourist standards. This excursion, however, was very pleasant. Our driver/guide was extremely knowledgeable and spoke excellent English. Not only did he take us for a thrilling ride up & over the sand dunes, but he was constantly stopping to search the sand for some of the desert’s most fascinating indigenous creatures.
of the Angolan Civil War between communist and anti-communist factions in which 500,00 people lost their lives. After decades of conflict, which only ended in 2002, the government began a massive rebuilding program financed with oil revenues. Projects include large social housing high-rise blocks of flats to replace slums and existing dilapidated tower blocks; extensive repaving; the construction of several six-lane highways leading out of the city; the reconstruction of railway lines; and a large new airport, which is scheduled to open this year.
scenic drive along Marginal Bay and a stop at Our Lady of Nazareth Church, a colonial structure built in 1664. This was followed by a visit to the Fortress of San Miguel (pictured), which was built in 1576 by Paulo Dias de Novais. It became the administrative center of the colony in 1627 and a major outlet for slave traffic to Brazil. Today, it holds the Museum of the Armed Forces.
city of Luanda. It occupies the center of the Agostinho Neto Cultural Center, which serves as Agostinho Neto’s final resting place. Neto (1922 – 1979) served as Angola’s first president from 1975 – 1979 after Angola had secured its independence from the Portuguese. He remained the leader of the Popular Movement for the Liberation of Angola in the subsequent civil war, dying before its final end in 2002. A Portugal-trained physician, he was also known for his literary skills as a renowned poet. The tower was designed to reference Neto’s poem, The Path of Stars, and is named after his book, A Sacred Hope.
countries of Africa, partly because of its considerable natural wealth, and partly because, on March 6, 1957, it was the first black African country south of the Sahara to achieve independence from colonial rule.
innocuous euphemisms: “Immerse yourself in Ghana’s culture and traditions… Watch the locals as they go about their daily lives at the Albert Bosmtwi-Sam Fishing Harbour. Here, fishermen and fish mongers preserve the fresh catch of the day. See as the fishermen unload the fresh fish from the boats while the woman go to work to preserve the fish.”
the bus opened its door, the aroma poured in like a malevolent spirit. An odoriferous combo of gutted fresh & rotting fish mingled with the perspiration of unwashed bodies and the unmistakable hint of human waste; the stench – exacerbated by oppressive heat and humidity – was simply overwhelming. And the signs – “No Defecation” – posted at strategic points throughout the area, seemed to bear witness to the lack of proper restroom facilities. The entire scene was, to say the least, a good deal less than hygienic. (Note the pictures above.) It was an incredibly eye-opening experience to realize that there are people who live and work in such conditions.
drumming and dancing. And the sharp contrast between our recent sojourn and what we were now experiencing could not have been more apparent. For while the facilities would certainly not be considered luxurious, they were pleasant, neat, clean, and the restrooms, particularly, were absolutely spotless. So much so that it was difficult to remind ourselves that we had not stumbled upon some cozy little inn in Europe or the United States.
situated on the southern coast of west Africa. Its largest city and economic center is the port city of Abidjan. A cultural crossroads of west Africa, Abidjan is characterized by a high level of industrialization and urbanization. It is also one of the most populus French speaking cities in Africa.
that would take us to the town of Grand-Bassam, the former French colonial capital of Côte d’Ivoire, the historic center and the adjacent African fishing village of which were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2012 (Pictured: Former Palace of the Governor, now the Museum of Costumes).
transpired???? My guess is that some money changed hands… but don’t quote me on that. In any event, enter our guide and his driver determined to fulfill their contract to show us the sights and sounds of Grand-Bassam. Problem was, the morning was getting on… it was a 45-minute drive each way to and from Grand-Bassam… and the ship had made it abundantly clear that all passengers had to be back on board at a certain time in preparation for sailing at the appointed hour. The ship would wait for late passengers if they were part of a Azamara-sponsored excursion… However, if they were out on their own, it would depart without them. Not a pleasant thought.
can surmise from the photographs, was not very grand at all. In fact, it had turned out to be a colossal disappointment. Most of the prominent colonial-era public buildings were constructed between 1894 and 1920, during the town’s short-lived “golden era.” However, after the French built a new wharf at Abidjan in 1931, and the new commercial capital grew in importance, Grand-Bassam became a sleepy backwater, and many of its public buildings were simply neglected and allowed to decay. A handful – namely the Post Office and Town Hall – have been restored, but the others remain in ruins and the streets in the old part of town are virtually deserted.
Gambia River, is the capital of The Gambia; it is also the country’s largest city. It was founded in 1816, when the British Colonial Office ordered Captain Alexander Grant to establish a military post on the river to suppress the slave trade and to serve as a trade outlet for merchants ejected from Senegal, which had been restored to France. Grant chose Banjul Island as the site, which he renamed St. Mary’s. He named the new settlement for Henry Bathurst, then colonial secretary. It became the capital of the British colony and protectorate of Gambia and, after 1947, was governed by a town council. With The Gambia’s independence in 1965, the town was granted city status and became the national capital. The name was changed to Banjul in 1973.
Luckily, we had chosen something a bit less traumatic… Our Mangrove Creek Cruise took us in a typical pirogue – a flat-bottomed boat designed to navigate the shallow waters – on an up-close and personal glimpse of the flora and fauna (and oyster beds) along the shoreline. As relaxing as it was instructive.
We were also told that we could wear swimsuits under our clothing and go for a “refreshing swim” should the tide be right. Actually, no one on the boat decided to take the plunge, which, given the downright unhealthy color of the water, was undoubtedly a smart move. We were, however, able to snap a few photographs of a party enjoying their leisurely lunch on a sandbar (pictured).
Tucked away on the north side of the C&D Canal in the historic town of Chesapeake City, Maryland, Schaefer’s Canal House isn’t exactly what you would call a “destination” restaurant. However, should you find yourself traveling along the nightmarish Philly to DC I-95 corridor – especially in warmer weather – its considerable charms will surely beckon. No matter where you happen to be seated, outdoor veranda or dining room, the view of the canal is truly spectacular – especially if a large ship should happen to pass by.
Given the restaurant’s strategic waterside location, as well as its informal atmosphere & nautical décor, it is certainly no surprise that matters piscatorial dominate the extensive bill-of-fare. There are, of course, suitable menu accommodations for landlubbers – burgers, cheesesteak, chicken, and sandwiches, for instance – but seafood is definitely the name of the game; specifically chosen, I might add, to complement the bounty of Maryland’s local waterways… And, if you’ll pardon the aqueous metaphor, it is always wise to swim with the current rather than against it. In other words, stick with what a given restaurant proports to do best, and you generally will not be disappointed.
Case in point… our most recent visit. My dining partner and I began our late lunch with a shared appetizer. The choices were legion. But this was definitely not the place for Chips & Salsa or Chicken Wings or Panko-Crusted Mozzarella… We hemmed and hawed between Jumbo Peel & Eat Shrimp and Traditional Calamari before finally settling upon the latter (pictured).
Entrées – Surf & Turf (8oz. filet mignon with lobster tail or crab cake), Jambalaya, Grilled Salmon, Parmesan-Crusted Mahi Mahi, etc., all served with a baked potato, vegetable of the day, and side salad) – were more suited to heavy dinner rather than light luncheon, so we obviously opted for less filling fare. My dining partner simply loves crab – in any way, shape, or form – so the Crab Melt (pictured) was something of a must. Basically, crab imperial (crabmeat combined with mayonnaise or a sherried white sauce) topped with sliced tomatoes, smoked bacon, and Swiss cheese served open-faced on a pretzel roll… Another major coup for the kitchen.
Diners have several options. My choice, for example, was the Fish Tacos (pictured), two flour tortillas filled with moist blackened mahi-mahi, a semi-mild, sweet-tasting white-fleshed fish that is similar to halibut in flakiness and swordfish in density. Accoutrements included an utterly delicious combo of cilantro cabbage slaw, sour cream/lime dressing, and mango salsa. Other possibilities, similarly embellished, are Grilled Shrimp Tacos and the Blackened Chicken for landlubbers… The Shrimp & Crab Quesadilla is set in an Old Bay tortilla and garnished with salsa, sour cream, and cheddar jack cheese.
Desserts, as you would undoubtedly surmise, are on the down-home side. Once again debating the issues, we finally decided to share the Key Lime Pie (pictured). A personal fave, it proved to be the perfect choice for a warm afternoon. Light as a feather and beautifully textured, it simply beguiled the palate with its sweet, citrusy flavor.