Prior to embarking on our cruise from Cape Town to Lisbon, we spent five full days in South Africa visiting wineries and restaurants in Franschhoek and Cape Town. This was our second trip to Cape Town and, once again, the Giltedge Travel Group did a simply superb job, not only of arranging our itinerary and our guide, but also of securing tables-with-a-view in all the restaurants in which we dined.
The highlight of our visit, however, was Samson, our driver and guide for the duration. He came highly recommended by our travel agent, and her praise was, indeed, well-deserved. He was extremely knowledgeable with regard to the history, culture, food, wine, vegetation, and people of South Africa. He was always timely and had excellent ideas of what to do each day; and, also, what to do if something on our itinerary changed unexpectedly. He was positive, personable, had a delightful sense of humor, and is now someone we would call a dear friend (pictured… By the way, there’s water in that glass!).
Noted below are the restaurants & wineries we visited in the order in which they were experienced.
PROTĖGĖ, 18 Huguenot Street, Franschhoek, South Africa, https://protege.restaurant/: Tucked away in Le Quartier 
Francais, a charmingly rustic little hostelry in the heart of the wine country, and our home for two nights, Protégé, which describes itself as “an informal eatery featuring stylish casual fare,” seemed like the perfect place to unwind and chill out after our 14-hour flight.
The setting is informal – patrons may dine alfresco (as we did) or watch the chefs at work in a central open kitchen. The food, however, is anything but. Calling it “stylish casual fare” is, indeed, an understatement. And that is not meant to be a knock, as the Asian, French, and Italian nuanced cuisine dished out in trendy small plates is perfectly prepared, beautifully presented… and more than just a little innovative. However, gastronomic esoterica such as BBQ Pork Roti, Gochujang (red chili paste) and Salmon Miso Aubergine, Ssamjang (Korean spicy dipping sauce) is unlikely to appeal to the meat and potatoes crowd.
The menu is also prix fixe – X number of courses for X number of Rand (the national currency of South Africa) – no matter what you order, you still pay full price. Which means copping out with a light snack or burger & fries à la carte simply is not part of the equation. Actually, though, this was not such a bad deal as our four courses cost a total of R795, which translated to $43.50 per person (plus beverages, tax & tip).
STARK-CONDĖ WINES, Oude Nektar Farm, Jonkershoek Valley, Stellenbosch, South Africa, https://stark-conde.co.za/: The boutique 
winery is nestled in the picturesque Jonkershoek Valley, just three kilometers outside the town of Stellenbosch. The setting is incredibly beautiful (see photo) and includes a small Balinese tasting room situated on its own little island surrounded by vineyards and mountain peaks… Hence the name of the winery’s restaurant, the Postcard Café. Interestingly enough, the Café, which was intended to attract more people to the winery, has more than accomplished its mission, and has also become a dining destination in its own right.
Winemaker and co-owner Jose Condé handcrafted his first-ever Cabernet Sauvignon vintage in 1998, which subsequently received a five-star rating from South African wine writer John Platter. Evidently, he was destined to become a winemaker rather than a graphic designer.
Steep alterations in vineyard elevation combined with abundant winter rainfall in Jonkershoek (3 times more rain than nearby Stellenbosch) ensure a more than suitable terrain for growing Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Syrah, and Pinotage.
Stark-Condé Field Blend is the only estate white wine produced; and it is an elegant balance of Roussanne, Chenin Blanc, Viognier, and Verdelho.
Mr. Condé firmly believes in traditional winemaking… handpicking, careful hand selection of the grapes, manual punch-downs, open-tank fermentation, basket pressing, and patient maturation for 22 months in French oak barrels. With only 6,000 cases produced annually, wines are not sold commercially; word of mouth is the winery’s sole method of advertising.
We tasted a number of wines; however, the red wines were particularly noteworthy. Samson had told us in advance that he was especially fond of the Syrah… and I totally agreed. I found the 2018 vintage to be incredibly lush, full-bodied, and quite elegant. I later discovered that the usual assortment of wine writers definitely agreed with Samson’s assessment. Decanter, for instance, bestowed 94 points, and Jancis Robinson called it “absolutely mouth-watering.” I purchased a bottle at the winery, which we presented to Samson as a parting gift.
DELAIRE GRAFF ESTATE, Helshoogte Road, Stellenbosch, South Africa, https://www.delaire.co.za/: Following our wine tasting at Stark-
Condé, we departed for lunch at the Delaire Graff Estate. Yes, we could have remained at the above-mentioned Postcard Café, but we preferred to dine alfresco; and, once again, Samson was right on the money with his Delaire recommendation. Shaded by ancient oak trees, the restaurant’s broad wooden terrace provided diners with sweeping views of vineyards and olive groves from Simonsberg Peak across the Banghoek Valley…
… And the food was quite good as well. The Salad Niçoise and the Caramel Tart were both excellent. And, while this may come as a surprise to readers, my dining partner and I enjoyed our luncheon sans fruit of the vine. Since we had already sampled several wines at Stark-Condé, planned to sample several more at Great Heart Boutique Wines during a personal afternoon tasting at our hotel, and were also looking forward to enjoying cocktails and wine with the evening’s dinner at La Petite Colombe, it seemed that oenological discretion would undoubtedly prove to be the better part of peristaltic valor.
GREAT HEART WINES – WINE BOUTIQUE, Le Quartier Francais, Huguenot Street, Franschhoek, 7690, South Africa, https://www.greatheartwines.com: Great Heart is the staff empowerment project of Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines, known for their multi-award 
winning Leeu Passant and Mullineux wineries. Aimed at improving the livelihoods of those who work for the company, as well as their families, the Great Heart wine brand is collectively owned by the winery staff, and a portion of all sales under this label go directly to them.
The winery produces four cuvées from grape varieties best suited to the regions in which they are grown: Swartland Chenin Blanc and Red Blend, and a Stellenbosch Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. We tasted all four varietals…
2020 Swartland Chenin Blanc: This wine is produced from sustainably farmed old vineyard parcels of dry land bush vines grown in decomposed granite soils of the Swartland. It is naturally fermented – 85% in tank,15% in old French oak barrels. The wine is on the citrusy side with hints of flint. It’s very nice on the palate with a refreshing acidity.
2019 Swartland Red Blend: This is a blend of 51% Syrah, 34% Tinta Barocca, and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. It is naturally fermented and aged in older French oak barrels for 18 months. The nose exhibits hints of red fruit, cloves, and black pepper. It is full-bodied on the palate with a touch of spice on the long, lingering finish.
2022 Stellenbosch Chardonnay: This single vintage Chardonnay is planted in the deep, loam-rich soils on the lower slopes of Helderberg Mountain. Natural fermentation takes place in oak barriques (20% new) followed by spontaneous malolactic fermentation and 10 months on the lees. This is a rich and complex wine with a superb minerality, racy acidity, and enticing fruit flavors.
2020 Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon: Indigenous yeast fermentation followed by 3-7 weeks skin contact. Matured for 11 months in 225 & 500L French oak barrels, 10% new. Deep garnet red in color, it is rife with red fruit and silky tannins leading to a gentle, lingering finish.
The wine that rang the most bells for me was clearly the 2019 Swartland Red Blend. And, fortunately, this wine is also available in the U.S. Your best bet is to purchase online through the Saratoga Wine Exchange in New York State. The price is $21.94 per bottle (plus shipping).
LA PETITE COLOMBE, Leeu Estates, Dassenberg Road, Franschhoek, South Africa, https://lapetitecolombe.restaurant/: Part of the Leeu 
Collection stable of fine restaurants, La Petite Colombe is nestled in the midst of vineyards and manicured landscapes, offering diners extraordinarily beautiful views of the Franschhoek Valley and Franschhoek Pass… And the cuisine, I can assure you, is every bit as photogenic as the scenery.
The adventure begins with cocktails and “snacks” in the lounge. Following this delightful prelude, we are called to table… And, as I noted above, thanks to the Giltedge Travel Group, it is another in a series of spectacular “tables-with-a-view.”
The menu at dinner is either The Chef’s Experience or The Chef’s Vegetarian Experience, both multi-course tasting menus. My dining partner chose the former; I the latter, so that we could mix ‘n match. The cost was R 1795 per person ($98.75), plus beverages, tax & gratuity. I won’t bore you with a blow-by-blow description of each presentation, but, instead, just mention a few of the highlights.
Both menus began innocently enough with an assortment of Leeu Estate Olives… After that, innovation was definitely the name of the game, including a host of ingredients – many indigenous to South Africa – that will send you scrambling for an epicurean dictionary. The Beef Tartare is a familiar dish; however, in this instance enhanced with chipotle and a zippy smoked aioli. The vegetarian menu substituted beetroot, which added its own unique contributions. And while the vegetarians were treated to Home Churned Butter spread on a bagel, the regular menu – in lieu of the usual salmon – offered Smoked Snoek – a local white-fleshed fish somewhat akin to Australian barracuda.
The high point for both of us was clearly the Karoo Lamb (pictured), which is considered by many – this writer among them – to be the best lamb in South Africa. Raised in a semi-desert area, the sheep feed mainly on the indigenous flora, which is extremely nutritious and responsible for the lamb’s unique flavor. Here the succulent slices were served with celeriac and kapokbos (wild rosemary). On the vegetarian menu, a delicious Herbed Gnocchi, replaced the lamb, but the accompaniments remained the same.
One of the more intriguing vegetarian dishes was Chawanmushi, a savory rather than sweet Japanese egg custard adorned with soy and dukkah, a Middle Eastern condiment consisting of a mixture of herbs, nuts, and spices. The flavor was, to say the least, highly unusual… but also pleasantly addictive.
Desserts were nearly identical on both menus, the only exception being that the Verbena (plant based minty/tangerine flavor) Panna Cotta (pictured) for vegetarians replaced the standard Vanilla Panna Cotta. Both versions, however, were garnished with gooseberry and tonka (a bean with a nutty vanilla flavor that is illegal in the United States). These were followed by Poached Pear steeped in rooibos (a South African red herbal tea), caressed by dulcey (a velvety smooth white chocolate sauce). An array of chocolates from the Sweets Trolley provided the ever-so-decadent finished touch.
KEN FORRESTER WINES, Scholtzenhof Farm, Winery Road & R44, Raithby, South Africa, https://kenforresterwines.com/: As I mentioned in a previous article, South Africa grows more Chenin 
Blanc than the rest of the world combined. And located on the slopes of the scenic Helderberg Mountains, the vineyards of Ken Forrester Wines are considered by locals and wine lovers as the home of Chenin Blanc. The man himself, known affectionately as “Mr. Chenin Blanc,” is reputed to be just as dynamic as the grape he so fervently champions. Unfortunately, he wasn’t around the day of our visit, but our tasting experience proved to provide its own unique rewards.
The white wines began with the 2019 Sparklehorse Cap Classique, a delightful sparkling wine, and moved on through the excellent, previously enjoyed 2022 Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc, concluding with the iconic 2020 FMC (acronym for “Forrester Meinert Chenin”) and 2015 Dirty Little Secret, which, if you’re feeling particularly flush, is available from Union Square Wine & Spirits in New York City for $239.99.
Mr. Forrester’s red wines are not as well known, but first-class in every respect. The Petite range features Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The 2020 Renegade is a Rhône blend reserve, as is his iconic The Gypsy… and both were absolutely first-rate.
ERNIE ELS WINERY RESTAURANT, Annandale Road, Stellenbosch, South Africa, https://ernieelswines.com/: Following our morning 
tasting at Ken Forrester’s estate, it was but a short drive to South African golfer Ernie Els Winery Restaurant for lunch. This was another eatery highly recommended by our guide, and we certainly were not disappointed. The building itself was quite impressive: a charming open-plan space that extended out onto a spacious terrace, offering us incredible views of Stellenbosch and the Helderberg Mountains (pictured).
The cuisine was quite hearty, made with a host of fresh, locally-sourced ingredients. My Roasted Butternut Squash and Goat Cheese Feta Salad, for example, came replete with an intriguing cashew nut praline, baby leaf greens, pickled onions, and was finished with a first-rate citrus dressing. My traveling companion was perfectly satisfied with her Roasted Local Vegetable & Pecorino Tagliatelle, and Samson had nothing but praise for Beef Filet. An excellent glass of Chenin Blanc proved the perfect complement to my salad.
ONE & ONLY HOTEL, Dock Road, V& A Waterfront, Cape Town, South Africa, https://www.oneandonlyresorts.com/cape-town: After our enjoyable luncheon at Ernie Els, Samson transported us to the One & Only, which was to be our home for three nights while we explored the sights, sounds, and restaurants in the immediate Cape Town area.
Situated in a prime location next door to the Two Oceans Aquarium, the One & Only is more of a resort than a city hotel. The spacious, beautifully-appointed reception lobby leads to the social heart of the hotel, the Vista Bar and Lounge with its triple-volume glass windows framing spectacular views of Table Mountain (pictured).
And there seems to be no end to the excellent wining/dining possibilities… The aforementioned Vista Bar and Lounge, for example, is open all day, serving cocktails, meals, light snacks, and afternoon tea. Ochre is the hotel’s vibrant breakfast dining room and buffet; while Isola is the establishment’s cool, laid-back poolside restaurant. Then, of course, there is the famous Nobu, serving classical Japanese cuisine with intriguing Peruvian subtitles. You may also want to check out the Wine Studio, which boasts one of the most balanced and diverse wine collections on the continent.
FYN RESTAURANT, 5TH Floor, Speakers Corner, Parliament Street, Cape Town, South Africa, http://fynrestaurant.com/: Fyn 
Restaurant – pronounced “Fain” – made its debut in 2018 on the fifth floor of a 19th-century silk factory and has been making waves on the global gastronomic scene ever since. In 2022, it broke into the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list at number 37… picking up the Best Restaurant in Africa award at the same time. Renowned South African chef and restaurateur Peter Tempelhoff launched the venue, supported by French general manager Jennifer Hugé and head chef Ashley Moss.
At its core, the menu is completely Japanese, utilizing fresh fish, poultry, and meat from the best of Cape Town’s farms and fisheries. The dishes change frequently; however, diners are generally greeted – as we were on the Fyn Reduced Menu (meaning a few less courses than the Experience Menu) – with such intriguing starters as Guinea Fowl Wonton and Ostrich Egg Chawanmushi (savory egg custard).
After that we moved on to such delicacies as Cape Malay King Trout with smoked barley, curry vinaigrette, and yuzu atchar gel; Rooibos Smoked Sashimi with white soy and lemon; and Roast Duck Breast with lacquered onion & hijiki, sancho pepper and lacto blueberries. Dessert was Ethiopian Ice Cream with yuzu (citrus fruit sauce) and blackberries. Wine pairings are available for courses on both menus.
By the way, if you arrive before sunset, the views of Lion’s Head and Table Mountain from the triple-height windows are truly spectacular.
FOODBARN CAFÉ & TAPAS, Noordhoek Farm Village, Village Lane, Cape Town, South Africa, https://www.thefoodbarn.co.za/: 
Following a morning of sightseeing – full descriptions to follow in another article – we paused for lunch at the Foodbarn Café & Tapas in Noodhoek Farm Village. Aptly named, the super casual eatery is set in a renovated barn replete with high thatched ceiling, bare wooden tables, and modern lighting fixtures.
But don’t be fooled by the laidback ambience, as the subtle French-influenced cuisine is beautifully prepared and generously portioned. So much so, in fact, that Fodor’s referred to the Foodbarn as “probably the best restaurant on the Cape Peninsula.” My dining partner & I dined al fresco and enjoyed the Calamari and Mushroom Ravioli, respectively, then shared a Rhubarb Crème Brûlée for dessert. All three were excellent.
I should also add that first-rate, reasonably-priced wine pairings, stellar service, and al fresco dining complete the picture. Definitely a gastronomic high point… By the way, just a stone’s throw away, the Foodbarn Deli serves fabulous breakfasts and lunches, as well as an evening tapas menu.
CHEFS WAREHOUSE, Beau Constantia Wine Farm, 1043 Constantia Main Road, Constantia Neck, Cape Town, South Africa, https://www.chefswarehouse.co.za/beau-constantia: Located twenty minutes from Cape Town proper, this modern eatery opened its doors in 2016. 
From the outside, the building with its eye-catching cubed glass, appears suspended in space. The interior, which has recently undergone a complete revamp, boasts an expanded open kitchen and spacious outdoor terrace that affords diners exceptional views of the valley below.
Chef Ivor Jones offers a celebration of global flavors with a unique set menu that changes seasonally. Much of the produce utilized in the kitchen is grown locally or on the Beau Constantia farm. This allows for a continuous flow of new ingredients and innovative adaptations to classic dishes, each carefully prepared and creatively, yet simply presented.
Main courses include such intriguing possibilities as Char-Grilled Tuna with perilla leaves (mint), Nam Phrik (spicy Thai chilli sauce) & Szechuan-style cashews; Pear Flan accompanied by blue cheese mousse, smoked pecan nut & thyme relish, and aged balsamic; Hakurei Turnip Mille-Feuille garnished with preserved spring flowers, and vadouvan (Indian curry blend of spices) & buttermilk dressing (The Hakurei or “Tokyo” turnip is sometimes referred to as a “salad turnip” due to its crisp raw flavor… Unlike other turnip varieties, hakurei do not need to be cooked); Thai Roast Chicken with BBQ cashew nut purée and roast chicken & tamarind dressing (pictured).
Interestingly enough, while the innovative cuisine was as picturesque as it was delicious, the evening got off to a rather rocky start, as the cocktails we ordered – my Negroni and my dining partner’s Cosmopolitan – were absolutely terrible. Especially the Negroni – traditionally made with equal parts gin, Compari, and sweet vermouth – which was beneath contempt. So bad that I had to send it back. So… over comes someone I supposed to be one of the managers, as he proceeded to give me an argument, telling me that he had mixed the cocktail himself and had certainly included the correct proportions. “Sorry,” said I, but it certainly didn’t taste that way… Off he goes in a huff. A few minutes later another Negroni puts in an appearance, which is spot-on. Needless to say, not the most hospitable way to be welcomed to a highly-touted restaurant. Go figure. Perhaps he should have taken a few lessons from Danny Meyer.
SALSIFY AT THE ROUND HOUSE, Round House Road, Camps Bay, Cape Town, South Africa, https://salsify.co.za/: The gentle waves of 
the restless Atlantic. The imposing Lion’s Head as a backdrop (pictured)… As gastronomic settings go, it would be difficult to top this one. And, once again, kudos to the Giltedge Travel Group for securing us a window table with the best possible view. The setting is decidedly romantic with an intriguing retro edge thrown in for good measure. Think colorful mid-century leather & velvet meet crisp white linen & bold modern art, as one writer put it, and you begin to get the picture.
The restaurant is a partnership between Luke Dale-Roberts and his head chef Ryan Cole, a culinary coalescence that has succeeded in changing Cape Town’s dining landscape. Mr. Cole, a master of unpretentious subtlety, impresses both eye and palate with every nature-inspired bite that comes out of the kitchen. It begins with a dazzling Smoked Springbok Loin accompanied by porcini & goat cheese mousse and puffed sorghum (ancient grain)… continues on through Slow Cooked Pork Belly… Free Range Beef Fillet and concludes with a decadent Hazelnut & Bitter Chocolate Tart companioned by Laphroaig Whisky ice cream.
In addition to the Chef’s Menu and Reduced Menu, Salsify also offers diners the option of a Boutique Wine Pairing or more upscale Gem Series Wine Pairing – both featuring exceptional South African wines – with each course. Go for the Gem Series, trust me, you won’t be disappointed.
Bon Appétit!
Be Safe & Stay Well
TAD
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Pinotage, a red wine grape that is a cross between pinot noir and cinsault, is South Africa’s signature varietal. Pinotage was created in South Africa by Abraham Izak Perold, the first Professor of Viticulture at Stellenbosch University. He was attempting to combine the best qualities of the robust cinsault with the subtle refinement of pinot noir (cinsault was known locally as “Hermitage,” hence the interesting conflation of names). 
On a whim, I checked out my local State Store just to see if I could find a Pinotage that was similar in nature. What I discovered, while not exactly comparable, still turned out to be an incredible find, as the 2021 Barista Pinotage, produced by legendary South African winemaker Bertus Fourie, is its own unique oenological treasure. The 2021 is a deliberately and distinctly modern interpretation of South Africa’s signature grape. It is significantly lighter in body than the aforementioned Pinotage and will certainly remind most wine lovers – this writer included – of a top-notch Pinot Noir. Nuances of vanilla and mocha and silky-smooth tannins make this a completely accessible wine that is ready to be enjoyed.
First reviewed in November 2019, Pomod’oro is the younger sibling of Anthony’s Pizza & Italian Restaurant in Malvern, PA. Croce “Tony” Cataldo, who hails from Carini in the City of Palermo, Sicily, opened Anthony’s in 1993. This first venture was such a success that Mr. Cataldo and his wife, Claudia, decided to open a second restaurant, Pomod’oro, in Downingtown in 2015.
The interior may strike you as somewhat utilitarian – unadorned wooden tables, silverware wrapped in paper napkins, hardwood floors, bare windows – but don’t be misled by the above photograph. The dining rooms have a warmth all their own, especially when filled by the restaurant’s loyal and ever-growing clientele – which is most of the time.
The sandwiches begin with a variety of Hoagies and continue through the traditional Turkey Club to Parmigiana (chicken, eggplant, meatball, sausage, and veal), and conclude with the all-American Angus Beef Cheeseburger and Tuna Melt (pictured). The Tuna Melt may not look like much, but it is, by far, the best representative of the genre it has ever been my pleasure to ingest… Served open faced on Italian bread, the fresh-made tuna salad is topped with tomato, lettuce, and melted Swiss cheese and companioned by crispy house-made potato chips. Team that with a side order of their luscious deep-fried onion rings, and you have a casual dinner that simply can’t be beat.
During several previous visits, I had excellent opportunities to sample the various entrées, which are all carefully prepared and generous to fault. The Spaghetti Bolognese, for instance, mentioned in my previous review, is so prodigiously proportioned that it provided me with two ample dinners at home in addition to what I consumed in the restaurant. The decadently rich & creamy Tortellini Alfredo, while somewhat more reasonable in size, is still more than ample… ditto the deliciously downhome Eggplant Parmigiana (pictured), a personal fave.
Seafood also holds a prominent place among the entrées, tempting diners with a number of old favorites: Linguini con Vongole, clams in a choice of red or white sauce; Seafood Alfredo, shrimp, scallops, and crabmeat in Alfredo sauce over linguine; Seafood Ravioli, lobster stuffed ravioli with crabmeat ina rosa sauce; Shrimp Scampi, rock & jumbo srhimp in a white wine & garlic sauce over linguine; Fish of the Day, prepared according to the chef’s whim; and last, but certainly not least (a little bit of everything), Pasta DiMare, fresh mussels, clams, rock & jumbo shrimp, scallops & crabmeat in a choice of red or white wine sauce over fettuccine (pictured in red sauce).
There are numerous appetizer options… As I mentioned in my first review, the Artichoke Casserole baked in butter and garlic and topped with mozzarella cheese is not for the faint of appetite and certainly has a great deal to recommend it… ditto the Baked Stuffed Mushrooms with crab imperial in a rich butter sauce. The Mussels are steamed and served with melted butter or white wine butter sauce or marinara. In a similar vein, the Steamers are soft-shell clams swimming in either a white wine & lemon sauce or marinara. Other popular items include Bruschetta, Mozzarella Sticks with marinara sauce, or, my dining partner’s favorite, the Fried Calamari (pictured).
… Saving room for dessert, however, is something of a must. Especially since the restaurant has a bakery on the premises and all items – including the gelato – are homemade. And there are plenty from which to choose… from the more traditional – Rice Pudding, Chocolate Mousse, Chocolate, Cake, and New York Cheesecake – to Italian favorites such as Tiramisu, Limoncello Cake, and Cannoli. But as I mentioned in my previous review, my absolute favorite remains the incredible Cannoli Cake (pictured). Part creamy cannoli filling, part moist yellow cake, it is both irresistibly decadent and utterly delicious. And be sure to wash it down with a double shot of potent espresso. I guarantee you will not be disappointed.
FROM THE BOOKSHELF: Brian Bartels, The United States of Cocktails: 
… And he has filled that notebook (and these pages) with an intriguing potpourri of memories, recipes, folklore, and a few tall tales from his incredible journey into the cocktails, spirits, and bar history celebrated in every state in America, paying a call at over seven hundred different bars, taverns, etc., along the way. As Ernest Hemingway once remarked, “If you want to know about a culture, spend a night in its bars.”
The main portion of the book is divided by regions – Northeast, South, Midwest, West – with individual states listed accordingly. For each state, the author lists its notable cocktail bars, state spirit, bucket list bar (absolutely must be visited if you are traveling near a certain town or area), oldest bar, state beverage, and cocktail recipe(s) indigenous to that particular state. Take Pennsylvania, for instance… Notable Cocktail Bar: Charlie Was a Sinner, Philadelphia; State Spirit: Jannamico Super Punch; Bucket List Bar: Kelly’s Bar & Lounge, Pittsburgh; Oldest Bar: McGillin’s Olde Ale House, Philadelphia, 1860; State Beverage: Frank’s Black Cherry Wishniak; Cocktail Recipe: Clover Club, Julie Reiner, created in the late 1800s at the Clover Club inside the Bellevue-Stratford Hotel in Philadelphia. 
The Vieux Carré is a legendary cocktail that most people have either never heard of… or mispronounce (It is pronounced in the Cajun & Creole style “vyur kaa ray”). But that hardly matters. What does matter is that this is a libation you may definitely wish to add to your cocktail resumé. The Vieux Carré was created in the 1930s by head bartender Walter Bergeron (pictured) at the Hotel Monteleone in New Orleans, who was seeking an alternative to the trademarked Sazerac. Bergeron named it after the French phrase meaning “old square,” which referred to the French Quarter.
It’s a short, slow sipper that begins with equal parts of rye whiskey, Cognac, and sweet vermouth. Not one, but two bitters are added; plus, a splash of a classic herbal liqueur to give it even more dimension. It’s a slightly sweet, slightly spicy, warming concoction with subtle herbal, citrus, and smoky nuances. It’s similar to a Manhattan but more complex thanks to the Cognac, Bénédictine, and two kinds of bitters. It is truly a classic cocktail and one of the signature drinks of New Orleans.
The recipe for Vieux Carré was first printed in the 1937 edition of Famous New Orleans Drinks and how to Mix ‘Em” and was initially exceedingly popular. But, as time when on, the cocktail did fall out of favor for a number of decades and slip into relative obscurity. All that changed, however, with the recent resurgence of interest in classic cocktails and rye whiskey. Thanks to skillful bartenders and the availability of fine ingredients, Vieux Carré is once again on every cocktail enthusiast’s list of truly great libations.
As cocktail guru Tom Macy once remarked, “If you love a Manhattan or Old Fashioned, the Vieux Carré is the next drink to add to your rotation. Essentially a Manhattan with a few additions that make it something entirely its own. There are several ingredients to collect, which make this a tougher drink to execute, but the effort is well worth it.”
SIGNAE, aka Cesarini Sartori Winery, is a family-run estate located in the landlocked Umbria region of central Italy, just north of the historic village of Assisi, the birthplace of St. Francis. The winery focuses on crafting organic wines, specializing in Sagrantino, a low-yielding red wine grape that is indigenous to the region. Luciano, the head of the Cesarini family is passionate about the health properties of Sagrantino – which was recently noted to contain some of the highest polyphenol (antioxidants) levels of any red wine – and his daughter, Alice, is working to promote this important varietal, which is still little known outside the region or Italy.
The wine I tasted recently, however, Signae Rossobastardo 2019, is a good deal less lethal on the palate than you might imagine. That’s because the Sagrantino is blended with a smooth combo of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sangiovese. Produced from grapes grown in the territory of the municipality of Gualdo Cattaneo, it is a cooperative combination of modern technology and traditional winemaking and Umbrian wine culture. The wine was such a success that Luciano Cesarini named the wine after his birthplace.
must endure the onerous rigors of unpacking/packing only once. Also, however – and certainly not a minor consideration – is the fact that you need not worry about the possible consequences of indulging in a wee bit too much vino over dinner, as the comfort of your stateroom is just a step or two away.
Silversea is obviously intent upon providing a more sophisticated/upscale environment for its passengers, especially during dinner services, as it spells out the preferred proper dress code – casual, informal, formal – in its daily bulletins. During the several “formal” evenings, for example, ladies are expected to wear either cocktail dresses or pantsuits; for gentlemen, tuxedos, dinner jackets, or dark suits & ties are considered de rigueur (Pictured: Silver Whisper’s Bar, traditional gathering place for preprandial libations).
sparkling chandeliers (pictured). The Restaurant offers a traditional breakfast menu; lunch features appetizers, soups, pastas, hearty salads, wraps, carving du jour, entrées, and an Asian specialty. Dinner is more comprehensive, with “formal” nights offering an array of possibilities. Guests can expect a suggested four-course menu showcasing a particular country, special evening recommendations, fresh fish & meats, and vegetarian options. And, although the onboard cuisine generally had its ups and downs, The Restaurant – which had significantly more ups than downs – proved to be our favorite haunt for dinner.
Cream Sauce, my dining partner with Shrimp Salad. Both were excellent. Other winners included Study of Artichokes, Velouté of Tomatoes, Chef’s Salad with Mandarin Orange Dressing, Spring Rolls, Stockfish (Cod) Croquettes, Pear & Blue Cheese Salad, and the spectacular Fantasia of Salmon (pictured) that was as photogenic as it was delicious. There was an occasional clinker – like the Welsh Rarebit that needed more cheese, or the ho-hum take on Foie Gras – but, for the most part, starters were definite high points.
Raspberry Mousse, Lemon Meringue Tart, Orange Cake with Mandarin Orange Ice Cream, Rice Pudding with Vanilla Ice Cream and Blueberry Almond Tart proved to be marvelous conclusions to our evenings at table and feasts for the eye as well as the palate. Without doubt, however, for true dessert addicts, the pièce de résistance was the incomparable “Death by Chocolate Buffet” (pictured) served up in the ship’s Panorama Lounge. Kudos to the pastry chef.
prominent. As I mentioned above, our first dinner onboard began with two first-rate dishes, Asparagus Ravioli in Cream Sauce and Shrimp Salad, respectively. Unfortunately, these two excellent efforts were followed by a so-so Corvina, a white-fleshed fish that is similar to sea bass. Like the majority of items that emerge from Silver Whisper’s kitchens, this one was beautifully presented… but it was also totally devoid of flavor. Conversely, the very next evening, the kitchen served up an absolutely superb Beef Bourguignon (pictured), which was thoroughly enjoyed.
minds…” It is, however, the absolute sine qua non of a successful restaurant. And it is precisely at this point that Silversea’s main dining room – and numerous other floating eateries – seem to fall short. There is absolutely no question that Silver Whisper’s kitchen, for example, turned out a number of excellent entrées: Their Yellow Stuffed Pepper with risotto topped with mozzarella and tomato sauce was absolutely first-rate. Ditto the Scallops of Veal, Wiener Schnitzel, Shepherd’s Pie, Grilled Branzino, and Spiced Lamb Cubes Rosh (pictured), a superlative Indian recipe… But then… the Swordfish on a Bed of Spinach was woefully overcooked, and the Steak & Ale Pie (which is similar to the aforementioned Shepherd’s Pie but also sports a piecrust) was as dry as a bone and in desperate need of a resuscitating gravy infusion.
begin with a glass of Prosecco, complimentary charcuterie (pictured) & bread basket. House-made pasta may be ordered as either an appetizer or entrée. Main courses include such items as King Prawns with Cognac and Grilled Duck Breast. Desserts showcase Gelati, Italian Cheeses, and Chocolate Molten Cake.
with Pesto. Other high points included: Mushroom Tart; Scallops of Veal; Grilled Branzino; La Nostre Conserve, tuna-stuffed bell peppers, porcini mushrooms, and Tomino cheese; Penne all’ Amatriciana, homemade penne pasta, pig’s cheeks, fresh tomato sauce, Parmigiano Reggiano, garlic, and red pepper; and a superlative Lasagna alla Bolognese, lasagna pasta, Bolognese sauce, Bechamel sauce, Parmigiano Reggiano, and fresh herbs (pictured).
But the real stars of the show were the beautifully prepared and presented desserts. If you want to keep it simple, for example, there’s Baklava accompanied by a scoop of Gelato, which is made onboard, by the way. Then, of course, there’s the Cannoli – crispy fried pastry tubes with ricotta cheese, pistachios, candied fruit, and chocolate chips – and the decadently rich Cream Puffs. Nothing, however, quite comes close to the incomparably deliciously Limoncello Cake (pictured). Downright addictive, it simply bewitches the taste buds. Not to be missed.
may choose from sandwiches, salads, burgers, hot dogs, and grilled fish specials. On sea days, poolside lunch buffets are enhanced with live music.
But take heart, the best is yet to come, as desserts are a high point. And, as you would probably surmise from the alfresco ambience and unpretentious cookery, they tend to be on the casual side. We sampled the Cheesecake and Apple Tart with Cinnamon Ice Cream (pictured), and both were sublime in their simplicity – but feasts for the eye as well as the palate.
In their assessment of La Dame, Cruise Critic offered up only two negative assessments… First of all, they noted that the wines matched up with what was available in The Restaurant… but thought – as I do – that they should have been a “notch above.” Secondly… the real bone of contention is a flaw in the seating design. The tables, arranged in a circle and often occupied by all couples, are situated in such a way so that everyone’s back is to the wall, staring into the center of the room at other couples, rather than facing each other. The suggestion has been made – and I think it is certainly worthy of consideration – that a more intimate arrangement needs to be forthcoming. As you may observe from the photo above, the setting isn’t terribly romantic. Perhaps screens between tables and the addition of flowers and/or candlelight would add considerably to the ambience.
The Choice is one of those restaurants that appears to be hiding in plain sight. When we first considered dining there – noting that it had received very positive reviews on Social-Media – we were surprised to find that no one of our acquaintance had even heard of the place, let alone dined there. And yet… when our party of three arrived for a recent Wednesday evening reservation, we found the 50-seat dining room full and joyously overflowing.
Matters piscatorial – both preludes and main courses – play a major role in Mr. Hyvel’s repertoire. His starters, for instance, range from cold items such as Yellowtail Sashimi, Tuna Tartare, and Lobster Ceviche to a comforting tomato-y Fish Soup awash with shrimp & scallops. Among his starters, however, the chef’s magnum opus proved to be his extraordinary Scallops in Shredded Filo (pictured). The rich & meaty deep-fried bivalves arrived at table accompanied by a zippy wasabi cream sauce… and were simply irresistible.
My dining partners decided upon the Halibut and Branzino, respectively. The former was companioned by mushrooms and finished with a green pepper dressing; the latter was presented with creamy mushrooms, crisp potato balls, and a side of fennel dressing. My Wild Caught Striped Bass (pictured) was a particular treat, as the filet was wrapped in a crispy potato crust, served on a bed of creamy leeks, and splashed with a delicate red wine sauce.
Just be prepared… Dinner at The Choice is not a cheap date. Those aforementioned highly-touted Scallops in Shredded Filo, for instance, will set you back $18.00. Lobster Ceviche goes for $28.00; with appetizers topping out at $32.00 for the Pan-Seared Foie Gras. Entrée-wise, that Butter-Poached Lobster will put a sizeable $60.00 dent in your wallet, while all finny fare goes for either $35.00 or $40.00. Meats are $35.00 per, with Chicken Teriyaki occupying the menu’s bottom rung at $28.00. Even those rather nondescript downhome desserts will set you back $12.00 per.
For your quaffing pleasure: Wines tasted at our wine club gathering on Saturday, January 14, 2023…
Among the little-known grape varieties of Greece, Assyrtiko has been by far the most popular among Greek whites. Although originating on the Island of Santorini, it is now planted across mainland Greece (as well as in parts of Australia), becoming one of the most important native varietals. It produces mainly dry white wines, some of which are aged in oak. Assyrtiko is one of those rare white grape varieties that can grow in hot and dry climatic conditions while, at the same time, keep the high alcohol in perfect balance with its crisp acidity.
The vineyards of the Nasiakos families lie in the heart of the two largest and most important wine regions of Greece. One is in Mantinia in Arcadia; the other – the highest point on Neméa – in Corinth, Peloponnese. Leonidas Nasiakos is the viticulturalist, winemaker, and producer of the wines that bear his name. Under the Nasiakos label, 6,500 cases of wine are produced from the indigenous appellation varietals such as Moschofilero and Agiorgitiko.
The Spicy Asian Brussels Sprouts embellished with peanuts, shishito peppers, and sweet chili sauce always make an excellent starter… ditto the superb Butternut Squash Bisque. Entrée-wise, the Java Pork Tenderloin with smashed yams, mango salsa, black bean sauce, and maple jus remains a house favorite. However, in my opinion, the Simply Grilled Salmon (pictured) steals the show. Presented with a fresh house salad, the seductive orange-ginger vinaigrette proved to be not only a marvelous dressing for the greenery but also a wonderful complement to the salmon itself, transforming a relatively straightforward dish into an utterly sublime presentation.
A scant moment after you’re seated, the tortilla chips and salsa hit the table… But be sure to team them up with the benchmark Guacamole, served in a traditional molcajete (the Mexican version of mortar and pestle). Other highly recommended starters include Queso Fundido – a type of party dish often compared to a cheese fondue – and an incomparable Quinoa Salad (pictured), a delightful amalgam of pumpkin seeds, avocado, raisins, cherry tomatoes, cucumber, and Queso fresco splashed with an enticing lemon vinaigrette dressing. Simply not to be missed. The tacos here – all served on homemade corn tortillas – are definitely a cut above. Choose your five favorites, which constitute the Taco Tasting Platter, and feel free to share.
Tucked away in the original carriage house of the Wentworth Mansion, Circa 1886, so notes their website, “evokes the romance and Old-World charm of historic downtown Charleston.” But the restaurant offers diners infinitely more than alluring ambience, as it is consistently ranked as one of the finest in the city, as Executive Chef Marc Collins (pictured) works with local farmers & fishermen to create an innovative seasonal menu that takes Lowcountry cuisine to new culinary heights.
To start things off, be sure to go for the Arancini al Fromaggio (pictured). A staple of Sicilian cuisine, Arancini are Italian rice balls that are stuffed with mozzarella (and, occasionally, other items such as green peas and ham), coated with bread crumbs, deep fried, and served with a marinara dipping sauce. If the kitchen has a claim to fame, it is undoubtedly their pastas. Stick with them and you can’t go wrong.
Dining at Davio’s is a good news/bad news proposition. First the good: The cuisine is first-rate on all counts. During my most recent visit, the six diners in our party (three couples) were completely satisfied with the gastronomic goings-on. Of special note was the incomparable Sautéed Veal Tenderloin (pictured). It remains, without doubt, one of the best veal presentations it has ever been my pleasure to ingest. And the same may be said for the outstanding Atlantic Salmon, which arrived at table on a seabed of sautéed spinach surrounded by a pool of warm eggplant caponata.
Visited on our way to Bar Harbor, this super-casual restaurant/market combo features fresh, local & sustainable species of fish & shellfish, Maine craft beers, wine & cocktails, and local snacks & art. The setting is unpretentiously utilitarian, but the welcome is warm and the regional cuisine carefully & lovingly prepared.
Acclaimed chef Nena Ismyrnoglou (pictured), who spent several years at the famous Estiatorio Milos in New York City before returning to her homeland, is the power behind the stove. A committed connoisseur of Greek cuisine – but also one of the country’s most highly-regarded chefs – she infuses traditionally loved recipes with her own unique innovative flair.
To start things off, nothing quite measures up to the incomparable Lebanese Mezza (pictured), a shared platter comprised of a host of traditional appetizers. Of particular note among the special entrées are the Shawarma, cuts of spiced & marinated lamb, chicken, turkey, beef & veal sliced wafer-thin from a vertical rotisserie. Generally, only two desserts are offered – traditional Homemade Baklava and a decadent Bread Pudding – and both are well worth the extra calories.
The burgers here are nothing short of spectacular. Without doubt, the best I have tasted anywhere. They range from the Bigger Mac – an obvious takeoff on McDonald’s – through the Mushroom, Bacon Blue, Phenomenal, which includes a fried egg along with a load of other accompaniments, and culminates with the Gatsby (pictured), ½ lb. American Wagyu patty, Clothbound cheddar, slab bacon, grilled onion, ancho ketchup, brioche roll, the most expensive burger on the menu.
No visit to Athens would be complete without a romantic evening at the GB Roof Garden Restaurant & Bar. Located on the 8th floor of the Hotel Grande Bretagne, this enchanting space offers unparalleled views of the City of Athens and the Acropolis with the Parthenon – a former temple dedicated to the goddess Athena – majestically perched upon it.
Replete with spiffy retro black-and-white tile floors and diminutive cozy bar, this little bohemian pub is every local’s favorite eatery, serving up one of Reykjavik’s most creative menus… And that menu changes seasonally – seemingly in the blink of an eye – with favorite tapas-style dishes reappearing in new forms, depending upon the mood of the kitchen and dictates of the weather.
Small plates included: Cod Crudo adorned with diced apples, crumbled rye bread, and garden cress and splashed a light vinaigrette; Broccoli rubbed in chili oil before cooking and seasoned with a subtle hint of sweetness, salted lemon, and mint; and Celeriac Cannelloni stuffed with cheese and topped with diced potatoes and green tomatoes. The one shared large plate – the high point of the evening – was the spectacular Eggplant Tempura splashed with puttanesca sauce and a sprinkling of fresh basil (pictured).
Volvér, which was closed for an extended period due to Covid, has now reopened. So, should you be contemplating a visit to the Kimmel Center and seeking a suitable pre-event dining venue, this fine restaurant should once again, be at the very top of your list of possibilities.
Located just around the corner from the hotel’s reception area, the Winter Garden City Lounge is an exquisite, beautifully appointed refuge where guests may partake of European breakfast, or a light lunch or dinner, accompanied by the soothing notes of live classical piano. The restaurant also serves afternoon tea, exclusively curated by its pastry & executive chefs, offering tea connoisseurs the finest selection of sweet and savory delicacies.