The 25 Best Restaurants
in Philadelphia Right Now
… at least according to the New York Times.
The article first appeared on October 23, 2023, as part of the Where to Eat: 25 Best, a series highlighting the paper’s favorite restaurants in cities across the
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U.S. I won’t bore you with a complete recitation, as the chosen 25 may be noted from various sources online. And, needless to say, the Times’ take on Philly’s dining scene has raised some eyebrows and a touch of ire here & there as well. (Pictured: Dining Room at Friday Saturday Sunday)
Michael Klein of the Philadelphia Inquirer, for example, noted that the Times’ article was “heavy on South Philly.” He went on to specify that “fourteen of the Times’ top 25 are in South Philadelphia… only four restaurants are located in the rapidly growing Fishtown-Kensington area, while six are in Center City.”
Of particular interest to this writer was not only the restaurants that were included, but those that were 
excluded. Among them, a number of highly-regarded upscale establishments that had received excellent reviews and were all-too conspicuous by their absence. This also caught Mr. Klein’s attention, but he blithely tossed it off as inconsequencial: “As Mason said to Dixon, ‘You have to draw the line somewhere.’” (Pictured: Dining Room at Vernick Fish)
Yes, Mr. Klein raised several significant questions… but failed to follow through. In fact, right from the outset, or so it seemed to me, his comments with regard to the Times’ article appeared to be self-consciously solicitous, studiously avoiding stepping on anyone’s toes. He did bring up a minor point of contention with regard to restaurant Friday Saturday Sunday, but never seriously questioned the general tenor and/or content of the article itself: “As the Times is writing for an international – or at least New York – audience, there are few surprises to those who follow the Philadelphia restaurant scene. Philadelphia readers may insist that their favorites have been overlooked as the Times writers have included a breadth of cuisines and price points. Such lists are conversation-starters, anyway, and are purely subjective.”
Subjective, indeed… “Food writing’s shameful secret,” chef/author John Thorne once remarked, “is its intellectual poverty.” And empty enumerations such as 
The 25 Best Restaurants in Philadelphia Right Now are glaring examples of that searing indictment. They represent, in my humble opinion, the worst of culinary journalism.
… And the New York Times should have known better – although, apparently not, as numerous other cities have already fallen (or will fall) victim to their top 25 as well. In this regard, Mr. Klein had ample opportunity to make a relevant contribution here… Unfortunately, he chose to remain mute, and/or refused to answer on the grounds that he might incriminate himself (as the Inquirer is by no means immune to the “listing” syndrome… ditto Philadelphia magazine and a number of local sources online).
In June of 1980, Jeff Weinstein, then restaurant reviewer of the Village Voice, penned a thought-provoking article entitled 
“The 25 Greatest Restaurants in America,” which was subsequently included in his book Learning to Eat, published in 1988. The article was brief and to the point; its major thesis even more relevant today than the moment it was written: “If anything can kill the possibility of spirited and serious food writing, it’s the list.”
“Most lists are nothing but menu information and prices, with a few adjectives like silky or pungent tossed in as camouflage. Not only is this an impoverished way to describe experience, it presupposes that all experience is available to this predigestion.”
Lists can also be deceptive, Mr. Weinstein asserts, as they lead us to expect perfection. However, “(lists) don’t have moods, memories, ambivalences. They won’t refund for disappointments.” In addition, lists have a deep structural connection to fads. Lists help create fads and are also subject to them. “The same editors,” he notes, “lick their chops at both.”
Another of Mr. Weinstein’s comments that I found particularly intriguing – but also completely valid – is the fact you can’t have a restaurant list without an expert. Conversely, anyone not an expert is basically a dimwit. And here he is definitely right on target: “Other kinds of media games can reinforce feelings of inadequacy, but the list does it without even trying.”
When it comes to the media’s fetish for lists, as you would undoubtedly surmise, profit motive plays a major role. “A list,” Mr. Weinstein concludes, “is a fundamentally lazy way for a newspaper or magazine to fill space and woo as many advertisers as possible. Modern restaurant reviewing was born as advertising copy that snuck onto the other side of the page. It may die there.”
His final word on the subject: “Ships list – before they sink.”
Bon Appétit & Cheers!
TAD
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Bodegas Manzanos is a large Spanish wine producer, founded in 1890 by members of the Fernández de Manzanos family. The original production capacity of the small winery was 50,000 liters of wine. In the 1940s, a new facility was constructed, expanding the capacity to 350,000 liters.
(pictured). The young entrepreneurs, while still maintaining a deep respect for family tradition, have turned Bodegas Manzanos into a prosperous, modern facility equipped with the latest technologies. In 2020, when COVID was preventing industry professionals from visiting Spain. They took the bold step of establishing a U.S. office and tasting room in Miami, Florida.
Grenache & 15% Cabernet Sauvignon… and it hits all the right notes. Mike DeSimone of Wine Enthusiast bestowed 93 points, noting its “vibrant acidity and plush tannins,” before launching into the usual ad infinitum, ad nauseum pontification of aromas & flavors.
These winemakers introduced many techniques from their own region, including the use of new oak barrels for long-term aging. Thus, the tempranillo-based red blends take on new complexities, depending upon their time in oak. Crianzas have the shortest aging requirement of two years (one of which must be in barrel); and Gran Reservas have the longest requirement of five years (two of which must be in barrel). Reservas, such as the 2018 Manzanos 111 Red Rioja, occupy the middle ground of aging: three years (one of which must be in the barrel), which means they are generally characterized by the subtle hints of baking spice, vanilla, and chocolate.
As you may recall, I’ve mentioned Trimbach on several occasions; and I make no apology for the fact that this estate produces some of my favorite wines. For three centuries, across thirteen generations, the Trimbach family has produced wines that are fruity, elegant, and beautifully balanced. Its vineyards surround the picturesque village of Ribeauvillé in the Alsatian region of France. And the area’s shared history between France and Germany has created a unique approach to the styles of both wine and cuisine.
Burgundian, today it is rarely found there; instead, it is grown primarily in Germany & Austria, where it is known as Weissburgunder, and in the Alto Adige region of Italy, where it is called Pinot Bianco. Trimbach’s 2021 Pinot Blanc is completely approachable, aromatic, and plush on the palate. Highly rated, it has received 91 points and 90 points, respectively, from the Wine Enthusiast and James Suckling. It is priced at $20.79 in Pennsylvania State Stores… And for those who think that Total Wine in Delaware, always has better prices, think again: $22.99 in the Claymont store. The lowest price I have seen online is $13.90 (plus shipping) at Saratoga Wine Exchange in New York State.
the dog” for those once-a-year relatives, or simply enjoy the finer things of life every once-in-a-while, I highly recommend the incomparable Cuvée Fédéric Emile. Outstandingly-rated year after year, this is truly one of Alsace’s greatest Rieslings. 94 points from James Suckling; 93 points from Wine & Spirits; and 93 points from Wilfred Wong of Wine.com, who also added: “The 2011 Cuvée Fédéric Emile Riesling is evocative and delicious… This wine brings a potpourri of aromatic flowers, earth and ripe apple to the fore.” I have personally tasted numerous vintages of this wine, and it never fails to impress. It is simply superb. The 2011 is available through Pennsylvania State Stores at $72.99. Lowest price online: Gary’s Wine & Marketplace: $58.99. If you would prefer a slightly younger version, the 2014 may be purchased online through Empire Wine at $74.99.
them. Without doubt, the wine of choice is Pinot Noir. And, in point of fact, it is the only red grape variety that is authorized in Alsace. Grapes for reserve wines are the result of a rigorous selection process, mostly from old vineyards in Ribeauvillé and the surrounding villages. Grapes are selected at maturity and, after de-stemming, undergo a gentle pneumatic pressing followed by an eight-day cold maceration to extract color and fruit. The juices are then blended in the cellar in stainless steel vats and old casks for malolactic fermentation. The Pinot Noirs are the only Trimbach wines to undergo malolactic fermentation. They are bottled after three months ageing and then spend a minimum of one year ageing in the bottle before release. The 2020 growing season experienced a mild winter and spring followed by a very dry and hot summer. When rain finally appeared, it allowed the grapes to ripen under optimal conditions. Acidity was preserved by surprisingly cool nights throughout the summer and early fall, resulting in an exceedingly fresh, structured, and balanced Pinot Noir. The 2020 Reserve Pinot Noir was reviewed in Antonio Galloni’s Vinous in January 2023. Anne Krebiehl, MW, bestowed 91 points, praising its “lovely sinuous, flowing nature.” Alive with delicate aromas of red and black berries; the palate is velvety and light as a feather. An excellent vintage that is best served moderately chilled. Priced at $26.99 at Pennsylvania State Stores, slightly less online.
The interior – as you will note from the photograph – is strictly utilitarian. There’s a small dining area as you enter, beyond that, the takeout counter and kitchen. The tables are bare, the lighting exceedingly bright, and there’s a constant stream of human flora & fauna picking up orders to go. Anticipating a romantic little tête-à-tête…? Forget it, you’ve come to the wrong address…
Pizza, of course, is the name of the game, and the choices are legion. Both Traditional and Gourmet Pizzas may be ordered as personal 10”, large 16”, Sicilian 16” square, or by the slice, all with a slew of assorted toppings.
Italian kitchen. Something of a no-brainer, you’re thinking. True. On the other hand, it is a dish that is so straightforward it is easily – and frequently – mucked up. No worries here, however. The breading is light & irresistibly crisp; the eggplant thinly sliced and just the proper texture (neither too hard nor too mushy); the pasta spot-on al dente; and the sauce a delightful blend of sweetness and acidity. Simple… yet sublime.
But if you’re a die-hard pizza fan, allow me to suggest a variation on the theme: Stromboli (pictured). A stromboli is essentially a cylindrical, rolled up pizza filled with layers of cheese, meats, and/or vegetables that is baked to a crispy, golden-brown finish, then sliced and garnished with marinara sauce. Interestingly enough, stromboli was invented by Italian-Americans living in the Philadelphia area.
However, if you happen to be dining à deux, and wish to appease your palate (and your partner) with something a tad more sophisticated, be sure to give the Tour of Italy (pictured) a try. This colorful combo of roasted red peppers, kalamata olives, burrata, Italian meats & cheeses, and eggplant caponata, all set on a pillow of arugula and drizzled with balsamic fig glaze, succeeds in dazzling the eye as well as tantalizing the taste buds.
definitely worth the additional calories. There are, of course, the ubiquitous Tiramisu & Cannoli, as well as other Italian specialties, including Gelato. I have personally tasted the restaurant’s Strawberry & Pistachio Gelato, and both are excellent. And even though they are not made in-house, they are still made off campus by a member of the Failla family… The real show-stopper, however, and my absolute favorite, is the utterly delicious Limoncello Cake (pictured). Fluffy, smooth as silk, and downright addictive, it is simply not to be missed.
It had been nearly two and a half years since we first traversed the narrow gravel lane and parked in the unpaved lot adjacent to the stone ruins of an old dairy barn… From there, it was just few brief steps to a secluded little restaurant retreat known as Orangery, which is also the residence of head chef Sabrina Lutz and her husband, Paul. As though caught in a time warp – tucked away in Glen Isle, a bit of bucolic bliss just off bustling Business Route 30 on the western fringe of Downingtown – it remains very much a world apart, a hidden gem from another age.
quite so pleasant as dining alfresco on the restaurant’s comfortable patio (pictured). The five-course set menu of hearty Tuscan fare changes fortnightly; so, as I also noted in my first review, the items I mention here may be somewhat different from what you will experience. However, this intro will still give you some idea of what to expect (to discover precisely what Orangery will be serving during a given week, please consult the restaurant’s website).
adorned with a savory topping. During our first visit, Sweet Peppers Crostini was quite delicious; the second time around, the Shrimp Crostini was less so – and infinitely more filling (more on that later). In lieu of a second course salad, the kitchen served up a Mini Vegetable Quiche (pictured), which was quite good, although – falling victim to a not uncommon faux pas – inordinately bland.
in the culinary chain. Bathed in an unctuous cream sauce, to say that this dish was exceedingly rich would, indeed, be an understatement. It was simply too much of too much of a good thing… But, more than this, several misgivings voiced as a result of my first visit, I note verbatim: “In the midst of a five-course meal, unless you happen to possess the appetite of a starving yak, the portion size was entirely too large”; and, in addition, “as you may note from the photograph, it was not terribly attractively plated.” Even a modest sprinkling of parsley or other herbs would have gone a long way toward significantly improving this dish’s bland dropped-onto-the-plate-from ten thousand-feet appearance.
pizza-maker style beef. Legend has it that, because they were so busy, pizza makers in Naples needed a dish they could easily prepare with ingredients they had on hand. And this is one of those dishes that is absolutely sublime in its simplicity. The chicken breast is lightly breaded, gently fried, and then topped with a sauce comprised of tomatoes, olive oil, oregano & basil. The finishing touch, a tiara of fresh mozzarella. And all is as it should be… the chicken is moist & tender and the sauce has just the proper interplay of sweetness and acidity.
your expectations. If you’re looking for a sophisticated Michelin-starred experience, you’ve definitely come to the wrong address. The cuisine here is hearty homespun Tuscan and, on the whole, quite good. The service is not professional; however, it is young, friendly, well-meaning, and has definitely improved since my previous visit.
several Pietro’s Coal Oven Pizzeria locations – the interior of Philadelphia’s Estia Restaurant resembles a cozy Greek taverna (pictured). The ambiance is unobtrusively rustic, the lighting subdued, and there’s a discreet hint of romance in the air. Stepping outside following your evening’s repast, you could very well expect to catch a glimpse of the Acropolis of Athens rather than the Academy of Music.
supplement – a country Greek salad that is comprised of tomatoes, cucumbers, green peppers, red onions, feta, and olives (sans lettuce), splashed with a red wine vinaigrette. This was quite good. The tomatoes were, as promised, vine ripened. They reminded me of Jersey tomatoes in season. However, as I know I’ve mentioned on several occasions, the key to a great Greek salad lies in the dressing – the proper proportions of oil, vinegar, herbs, and other seasonings – and, in this case, the extraordinary red wine vinaigrette is enough to turn heads.
Ditto the Salted Caramel Baklava (pictured). In addition, the promised caramel sauce was conspicuous by its absence, and the presentation was hardly what one would call photogenic. As if to add insult to injury, there was a $2.00 supplemental charge for this dessert. My dining partner and I have tasted baklava in numerous Greek-Mediterranean establishments (both here and in Greece), and this bland-leading-the-bland variation on the theme certainly left a great deal to be desired.
a savory combination of cooked potatoes, tender eggplant, seasoned ground beef, a rich Kefalograviera béchamel, and splash of tomato sauce. And although this traditional Greek dish should have been a no-brainer, the kitchen somehow managed to muck up both orders. My dining companion’s (pictured) was nicely presented – but also a good deal less than lukewarm – and had to be sent back to be reheated. My presentation, while sporting the proper temperature, had obviously incurred significant structural damage, either during or immediately following the freefall to its final resting place.
however, heinously overpriced, as it costs the restaurant a mere pittance to turn them out. Interestingly enough, both the Estia Chips and the aforementioned Country Greek Salad go for $12.00 during the restaurant’s “Happy Hour” (3:30 – 5:30 p.m. daily; at the bar and high-top tables only), which, from my point of view, is a good deal closer to what should be their actual price point. With regard to the Chips, an even better idea would be to serve them as an amuse-bouche, a complimentary gift from the chef, presented to all diners, including patrons sipping cocktails at the bar.
Assyrtiko wines are produced from the indigenous Assyrtiko grape, which is cultivated in some of the world’s oldest vineyards, dating back 3,500 years. The grape originated on the island of Santorini, but is now cultivated throughout Greece. In terms of quality, it is one of the most important native varietals. It produces mainly elegant and distinctive dry white wines, some of which are aged in oak. When I was in Athens two years ago, I did sample, on several occasions, the Estate Argyros Assyrtiko from Santorini… and it was utterly superb.
indigenous grape varieties, Agiorgitiko is the most widely planted and among the most commercially successful. It produces red wines that are bold, complex, and alive with dark fruit flavors. Sampled at both Estia and in Athens, this wine is supple & generous on the palate and beautifully balanced. The best part, though, is the price. The average retail price is $18.00; $18.99 if you’d like to take a short drive to Total Wine. Guess what it’s going for at Estia: $19.00 per glass/$76.00 per bottle.
I’ve dined at the Chester Springs outpost on numerous occasions over the past ten years (this is my third review), and I freely confess that very little has changed in the interim. To the right as you enter is the contemporary Tuscan-esque dining area replete with nooks & crannies specifically designed for small gatherings; to the left is the bar/lounge awash with high-top tables and four flat screen TVs. This latter space is exceedingly comfortable and, to my way of thinking – especially should you be dining à deux – preferable to the main dining room, which can be overrun by extended families, large parties, and noisy, ill-behaved progeny.
And from the moment the complimentary Bruschetta (pictured) hits the table, you know you’re in good hands. The bread is properly crunchy, yielding a satisfying “bite” without causing any possible permanent damage to your outrageously expensive dental work; the olive oil, diced tomatoes, and onions are properly proportioned, which is to say not so generous as to dislodge from their perch and land unceremoniously in your lap; and the seasonings – especially the garlic – are just right.
run on the humongous side (and I do not exaggerate; please note the photograph below). So, unless you happen to have the peristaltic capacity of a starving yak, appetizers – which are also quite generous – will be entirely superfluous (and doggie bags something of a necessity). On the other hand, if you simply must have a starter – I would highly recommend – as my dining partner and I did recently – sharing a Caesar Salad. The Caesar is especially good here, and the chef will be happy to halve your order before it leaves the kitchen (pictured).
pistachios. Likewise, entrées proper traverse a similarly intriguing culinary terrain… A marvelous rendition of one of my favorite dishes, Veal Saltimbocca… a delightfully delicate Branzino Scampi, companioned by shrimp and kissed by a white wine lemon butter sauce… and a restaurant favorite, Chicken Messina pictured). The parmesan-crusted chicken breast is stuffed with asparagus, Prosciutto di Parma, and fresh mozzarella, consummated with caprese cream sauce, mixed mushrooms & pancetta, and served up with a generous tangle of linguine. Not terribly photogenic, but the various elements work very well together – the chicken is perfectly moist, and that irresistible caprese cream will keep you coming back for more. Definitely worth the price of admission.
on previous occasions. But once she spotted the fact that Eggplant Parm could also be ordered as a flatbread… that sealed the deal. For while the Eggplant Parmigiana, like the above-mentioned Chicken Messina, wasn’t exactly a unique photo opportunity, the flatbread version was a totally different story. Beautifully adorned with splashes of tomato sauce, fried eggplant, mozzarella, Parmigiano Reggiano, basil, and rosettes of Grand Ricotta, the presentation was a delightful feast for the eye as well as the palate (pictured).
Plenteous entrée portions notwithstanding, desserts are certainly worth saving room for. There are – but of course – many of the usual suspects: Chocolate Soufflé, Crème Brûlée, Cannoli, and Tiramisù. However, if you are something of a dessert fanatic, take my advice: Go for the gold. Which means, when they are available, Bananas Foster Cheesecake, creamy New York-style cheesecake topped with caramel drizzle; and, a personal fave, the Chocolate Peanut Butter Ganache (pictured), homemade velvet chocolate cake filled with creamy peanut butter mousse and a rich icing of semi-sweet chocolate & whipped cream.
undoubtedly the incredibly wicked Limoncello Cake (pictured). The rich, buttery cake is splashed with – you guessed it – limoncello liqueur, filled with chunks of white chocolate, consummated with a limoncello glaze, and topped with a dollop of vanilla ice cream… Don’t even think about the calories!
What, precisely, is aperitivo…? Aperitivo – or apéritif – is a preprandial libation. Derived from the Latin aperire, the tradition is meant “to open” the stomach before dining.
Each chapter of the book focuses on a different city or region, and includes recipes inspired by the cocktails and small plates served in specific bars or simple variations on classic regional appetizers or ingredients. As noted above, with the arrival of vermouth, aperitivo made it debut in Turin with such libations as Vermouth Neat (served cold in a chilled short-stemmed wineglass or cordial), Vermouth Spritzer, or Vermouth on the Rocks with accompaniments like Oven-Roasted Eggplant and Fresh Goat Cheese with Pink Peppercorns. In Milan, it’s the invention of Campari that made the big splash, with cocktails like the Garibaldi (with fresh-squeezed orange juice), Americano & Vintage Negroni. Accompaniments include such delicacies as Lemon Potato Croquettes, Baked Mussels with Spicy Mayonnaise, Fried Shoestring Vegetables, and Lamb Chops alla Milanese. Venice is the final stop, savoring a Bellini, the classic combination of sparkling wine and white peach purée, made famous by Giuseppe Cipriani of Harry’s Bar… various Crostini (pictured) and Harry’s Bar Polpettine (small Italian meatballs) adding their own unique culinary contributions.
The dining arrangements are somewhat unusual but also quite pleasant. The room is large (142 seats) and bustling; but because of its length and narrow width, you don’t feel crowded or closed in. Tables stretch in a leisurely array past the zinc-top bar and open kitchen, eventually spilling into the space at the rear that is generally reserved for private parties. The piped-in classic rock may not be to everyone’s taste, but it certainly adds an energetic note to the proceedings.
items as King Salmon Crudo companioned by roasted pineapple, lime & mint; Snapper Ceviche spruced up with coconut broth, red onion & lime leaf; and Tuna Tartare on sourdough garnished with avocado and Fresno Chili Oil (pictured); which, although listed as an appetizer, a member of our party thoroughly enjoyed as his main course. And at this juncture, perhaps, a few words of explanation are in order. What, for example, is the difference between Crudo, Ceviche and Tartare?
Endive & Baby Gem Salad splashed with tarragon vinaigrette… But, as far as our party was concerned, the Marinated Shrimp on a seabed of shredded napa cabbage & Thai basil sprinkled with peanuts appeared to be the star of the show… That is, until the incredible Broiled Oysters Philadelphia (pictured) hit the table. Gently caressed by breadcrumbs seasoned with Genoa salami & provolone cheese and presented in a cast-iron tray usually reserved for escargot, they were a superb feast for both eye and palate.
Sole, a special unlisted on the printed menu, is always a favorite; but since we had recently enjoyed this delicacy at our above-mentioned luncheon at Le Bernardin, we decided to pass on that as well. We finally agreed upon the Grilled Black Sea Bass (pictured). And a very wise choice, I might add. Especially since the accoutrements – tomato sauce, gold bar squash & crispy eggplant – proved to be perfect complements.
Almond Tart (pictured) – which are basically standard issue. Were they bad? No… but, given the carefully crafted dishes that had preceded them, we expected a great deal more in the sweet endings department… and it simply was not forthcoming. And this, unfortunately, placed a decidedly negative pall over what – up until this point – had been an extremely rewarding evening at table. I say this because Mr. Vernick would do well to remember that the last thing diners experience within restaurant precincts is likely to be the first thing they remember.
“Until the 1990s very few wine lovers outside Austria had even heard of Grüner Veltliner.” So writes British wine guru Jancis Robinson. “Today,” she goes on to say, “no self-respecting restaurant wine list, whether in New York or Hong Kong, can afford to be without at least one example of this, Austria’s signature white wine grape.”
lovers. Hopefully, this situation will change significantly, as Grüner is obviously a wine of inherent character and quality… as well as an incredible value for the money. You don’t have to spend a fortune to acquire a very well-made bottle. And it boasts a flavor profile that will appeal to fans of other popular grape varieties as well. Because of its citrus notes and occasional herbaceous quality, it will undoubtedly attract lovers of Sauvignon Blanc; and Pinot Grigio fans will appreciate its lovely texture and ability to pair with a wide range of foods.
Weinviertel region of Austria in the village of Kleinhadersdor, winery Weinrieder specializes in the production of fine white wines. Owner and winemaker Freidrich Rieder and his family are known for their high quality, fruit-driven wines and eisweins.
Valley in California. And, as the winemaker notes, this is a wine that touches both sides of the Grüner spectrum. It is bright, fresh, and vibrant, but also possesses a complex texture and fullness of body characteristic of Edna Valley white wines. There’s less acidity here and definitely more body than in the Weinrieder Grüner noted above. And, to be perfectly honest, having tasted these wines on back-to-back evenings, I much prefer the Edna Valley version.