For your dining pleasure, listed below in alphabetical order are synopses of the fourteen (14) restaurants reviewed during 2013. Complete reviews of these establishments may be accessed at www.artfuldiner.com/Philly.html.
AVERO CRAFT PIZZERIA, 821 Lancaster Avenue, Wayne (Devon), PA, (484) 580-6455, www.averopizza.com: The preopening publicity blitz had Main Line foodies salivating with impunity… but Avero has never quite lived up to the hype. The so-called “craft” pizzas were soggy and disappointingly generic; the “artisan” pastas perhaps even a step below, and the wine list horrendously overpriced. The biggest bug-a-boo, however, continues to be the noise level. When Avero is sparsely populated, a pin-drop sounds like a thunderclap; when the restaurant is filled, the decibel level is so daunting it is impossible to carry on a normal conversation without shouting at one’s tablemates. The most recent scuttlebutt indicates that the proprietors have hired a new chef, revamped the menu, and lowered wine list prices… Will this make a significant difference…? Your guess is as good as mine. In the meantime, to play it safe, drop in for a late weekday lunch, have a seat at the bar, and hope for the best… But it’s your call.
BINNI & FLYNN’S, 575 Lancaster Avenue, Berwyn, PA, (610) 251-9600, www.binniandflynns.com: Meridith Coyle, whose parents founded the original Binni & Flynn’s, which closed its doors in 2001, has resurrected the restaurant from the ground up, even recreating her parents’ recipes… And the eatery obviously hit its stride right out of the starting gate. Service is snappy and attentive; and the cuisine – Southwestern fare with a number of interesting twists and turns – is obviously designed to touch a wider variety of gastronomic bases. That being said, however, the Tex-Mex offerings have infinitely more to offer. To start things off, the torta spinaca is not to be missed. Fresh sautéed spinach is combined with a gooey assortment of melted cheeses and served open faced on a flour tortilla. A positive nightmare for your next cholesterol test, but outrageously delicious nonetheless. Entrées proper, especially fajitas, are also exceptionally well prepared and presented. Binni & Flynn’s is a casual unpretentious eatery. Keep that in mind, stick to traditional favorites, and you won’t be disappointed.
BROAD AXE TAVERN, 901 West Butler Pike, Amber, PA, (215) 643-6300, www.thebroadaxetavern.com: The Broad Axe holds the distinction of being one of America’s oldest taverns, dating from 1681. And the multi-million dollar renovations of 2009 carefully preserved the building’s historic character while adding more modern amenities and significantly sprucing up the menu. The Bar/lounge, awash with comfortable high-top tables & chairs, is particularly pleasant and to be preferred over the regular dining rooms. The list of brewskies is impressive; and the wine list, while not as spectacular, is also well chosen and holds some interesting possibilities. Among the appetizers, the deep fried green beans with wasabi ranch dipping sauce is quite good… ditto the hearty chipotle black bean soup. Regular entrées can be somewhat hit or miss, but stick with the “pub grub” – sandwiches, burgers, tacos, etc. – and you’re on pretty solid ground. A highlight here is the restaurant’s take on pizza, which substitutes flatbread for typical pizza crust; and the pepperoni & cheese version is particularly recommended.
BUCKLEY’S TAVERN, 5812 Kennett Pike (Route 52), Centreville, DE, (302) 656-9776, www.buckleystavern.com: This popular restaurant/bar reopened on October 30, 2012, after a change in ownership and 3 million dollars’ worth of renovations. The entire restaurant is brighter, more strikingly appointed, and yet still manages to maintain its original rustic charm. The big difference, however, is the notable upswing in the quality of the cuisine. The eminently sharable roasted garlic hummus served up with pita chips and dollop of pungent pesto makes an excellent starter or mid-afternoon snack. Even better though, is the incredibly delicious – and photogenic – tomato bruschetta mix companioned by honey goat cheese and more of that first-rate pesto. If you’re craving something a bit heartier, the sandwich/burger route also has a good deal to recommend it. Among the large plates, the only disappointment proved to be the decidedly mushy fish and chips. The macaroni & cheese casserole with roasted tomato jam, on the other hand, is an excellent choice.
CAFÉ AT WYEBROOK FARM, 150 Wyebrook Road, Honey Brook, PA, (610) 942-7481, www.wyebrookfarm.com: If you’re searching for a weekend excursion with a gastronomic reward at the end of the journey, the Café at Wyebrook Farm beckons. The Café features a variety of sandwiches, burgers, and salads, all prepared utilizing Wyebrook meat products, locally made cheese, and locally grown produce. Guests order through a barn window and then enjoy their meal on picnic tables in the barn’s courtyard area, taking in picturesque panoramic views of the Farm’s pastures. In addition, owner Dean Carlson has expanded the offerings at the Farm Market, which occupies the top floor of the barn and is stocked with a seasonal array of Wyebrook beef, pork, and poultry, as well as produce, cheese, and other fine products from neighboring farms and local purveyors. Unlike the Café, which will not make its seasonal debut until the latter part of April 2014, the Market is open on Fridays from 2:00 p.m. – 7:00 p.m. and Saturdays & Sundays from 11:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. during the winter months. BYOB.
CATHERINE’S RESTAURANT, 1701 West Doe Run Road Kennett Square (Unionville) PA, (610) 347-2227, www.catherinesrestaurant.com: Tucked away in what was an historic general store, Catherine’s is more a dining diversion than a destination. And it is, to say the least, somewhat on the quirky side. But if you happen to be visiting various points of interest in the Brandywine Valley, this BYOB is certainly worth a luncheon (rather than dinner) stopover. In warmer weather, the slightly unkempt outdoor patio is a pleasant spot to settle in. The interior, on the other hand, is a decorative hodge-podge and slightly on the musty side. The American “comfort” cuisine, as you can well imagine, is as eclectic as the décor. And the rich & hearty wild mushroom & lump crab soup (also available by the quart to enjoy at home) is the restaurant’s claim to fame. The turkey club sandwich and homemade roasted chicken salad are definitive winners. Other items – the woefully undercooked burger and the bland-leading-the-bland lump crab cake on brioche – less so. Dessert-wise, the extraordinarily delicious Key lime pie leads the way. Think of Catherine’s as an intriguing culinary/cultural divertissement and you won’t be disappointed.
FARMER’S ROAD DRIVE THRU RESTAURANT, 210 Wilmington Pike, Painters Crossing Village, Chadds Ford, PA, (610) 558-2220, www.farmersroaddrivethru.com: Courtney Rozsas, the 28-year-old proprietor of Lotus Farm to Table in Media, PA, opened Farmer’s Road Drive Thru as her second culinary venture. The BYOB has 60 seats – 30 indoors, 30 outdoors – and an operational drive through. Ryan Sulikowski, Executive Chef of the aforementioned Lotus Farm to Table, oversees the kitchen. Chef Sulikowski & Ms. Rozsas focus on creating a variety of heart-healthy as well as gluten-free, vegan, and vegetarian options. More than 80 percent of produce used by the restaurant is sourced from local farmers, as well as 100 percent of meats & poultry. A large mounted chalkboard proclaims “Know where your food is from” and lists the restaurant’s farmers and purveyors. Other eco-friendly touches include the use of non-toxic cleaning products, packaging, energy efficient cooking equipment, LED lights, and a recycling station. If you happen to be visiting in the Chadds Ford area, Farmer’s Road is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner six days a week.
FENICE CREOLO, 902 Village of Eland, Route 113, Phoenixville, PA, (610) 933-3993, www.fenicecreolo.com: Tucked away in the Village of Eland, an interesting conglomeration of shops, restaurants, galleries and salons, Fenice Creolo inhabits the space formerly occupied by the long-running Epicurean Restaurant. The interior, however, has been completely renovated. Rotating contemporary art graces the walls, and the bar area has been stylishly revamped, eliminating the wall that separated it from the dining room. The food, though, a fusion of classic creole creations with a touch of Italian flavors, is the real story. Whether feeling downhome New Orleans or Italian and lyrical, the menu offers a host of viable possibilities. Creole specialties include a benchmark jambalaya and the “Cajun Canoe,” a carved zucchini filled with seafood served over étouffée rice. In the latter category, the shrimp & fettuccini is also quite excellent. But if you’d really like to get down to the nitty-gritty, I’d head straight for the fried catfish platter, a frequently featured special.
FORK, 306 Market Street, Philadelphia, PA, (215) 625-9425, www.forkrestaurant.com: More than any other restaurant I’ve encountered in the City of Brotherly Love, Fork has a definitive New York City vibe about it, with closely spaced bistro-like tables and an open kitchen adding to the slightly hectic but casually sophisticated ambiance. The cuisine is not only rich but also, surprisingly, quite heavy-handed at times. And while appetizers and the restaurant’s benchmark hand-made pastas generally demonstrate a decidedly light touch and are quite pleasing to the eye, the entrées are often of gargantuan proportion and overwhelmed by what I consider a self-conscious convolution of ingredients. Sometimes more is less. Desserts, on the other hand – if you have room for them – are outrageously delicious and infinitely more sharply focused. The restaurant also offers its diners an intriguing selection of wines covering a broad range of styles, many from small, lesser-known producers. While Fork is not outlandishly expensive as Philadelphia restaurants go, depending upon your gastronomic and libationary preferences, dinner for two could very easily top the $300.00 mark. If you’re not particularly enthusiastic about parting with quite so much long green, lunch, which is served Wednesday – Friday, might be a viable alternative.
GRACIE’S CAFÉ, 2960 Skippack Pike, Worcester, PA – CLOSED: Gracie’s closure seemed inevitable. The quality of the cuisine was questionable, and other patrons were always conspicuous by their absence. Columnist Jim Quinn’s words were never more appropriate: “Never eat in an empty restaurant… everyone who isn’t there must know something you don’t.”
LIMONCELLO RISTORANTE & BAR, 499 East Uwchlan Avenue (Route 113) Chester Springs, PA, (610) 524-3112, www.limoncellocs.com: The younger sibling of the West Chester Italian stallion mainstay, Limoncello’s Chester Springs location has a great deal to recommend it. The restaurant’s attractive contemporary Tuscan-esque décor belies the utilitarian strip mall façade; and the bar/lounge, replete with a bevy high-top tables & chairs and four flat screen TVs (thankfully, without benefit of sound), is an exceedingly comfortable space. The sandwiches here are always solid choices for a noonday stopover. Among the “old favorites,” the eggplant parmigiana is superbly done and the ultimate in southern Italian comfort food. The veal, both the 14-ounce bone-in chop and the veal Milazzo – medallions topped with Parma prosciutto, fresh mozzarella, slices of Portobello mushrooms, and a savory white marinara sauce – are also quite excellent. A family-owned operation, this is an eatery that offers good food, reasonable prices, comfortable surroundings, and personal service… and that’s a combo that’s hard to beat.
PEPPERCORN, 503 West Lancaster Avenue, Eagle Village Shops, Wayne, PA, (610) 964-2588, www.peppercornmainline.com: On Tuesday, September 3, 2013, Peppercorn Restaurant made its debut in the space that was, for the past twelve years, the undisputed Gallic domain of Georges Perrier. While the basic interior of the building remains the same, the décor has been brightened significantly. And the new menu, which offers a variety of possibilities – entrées, sandwiches, burgers, pastas, and pizzas – for assorted budgets, has a decidedly American rather than a French accent. If you stop by for lunch, the sandwich “boards” are both attractively presented and outrageously delicious. For dinner, start things off with the sublime roasted tomato soup or fried Brussels sprouts leaves. Entrées include a cut-like-butter 21-day aged filet and succulent braised Australian lamb shank on a pillow of mint spaetzle. The original “deconstructed” desserts have been abandoned in favor of more traditional sweet endings; and they are first-rate as well. An interesting wine list adds to your dining pleasure.
SEASONS 52 FRESH GRILL & WINE BAR, 160 North Gulf Road, Suite 101, King of Prussia, PA, (610) 992-1152, www.seasons52.com: The restaurant’s concept is reflected in its name: The menu changes four times per year, with the seasons; and the kitchen strives to feature healthy and flavorful ingredients at their seasonal peak. Another plus is the extensive international wine list, with a hundred vintages available by the bottle and sixty by the glass. If Seasons 52 has a signature dish, it is most assuredly their incomparable flatbreads, which are great as a prelude or as a stand-alone late afternoon or evening snack. Coming in a close second in this department are the equally enjoyable soft tacos. Unfortunately, the restaurant’s entrées are simply not on the same culinary level as their superlative appetizers. If you pay a call, the piano bar/lounge is clearly the place to be. The large circular bar itself is tastefully appointed and exceedingly comfortable, as are the colorful booths that surround it. The bar, which is wildly popular, is first come, first served. So you may have to cruise the area awhile before finding a seat… But if you’re a people watcher, it’s worth the wait.
SOVANA BISTRO, 696 Unionville Road, Kennett Square, PA, (610) 444-5600, www.sovanabistro.com: If you’re visiting anywhere in the Kennett Square area, this charmingly casual restaurant cannot be recommended highly enough, as it offers up some of the best cuisine I’ve sampled in quite some time. If you drop in for lunch, the grilled corned beef sandwich on marble rye is something of a must. Embellishments include a spicy whole grain mustard sauce, Swiss cheese, and a fabulous rutabaga-infused sauerkraut. If you’d prefer something a bit lighter, the fish tacos, sprinkled with a dynamite cumin-lime vinaigrette, are an excellent choice. For dinner, be sure to sample the house-made pastas – of particular note is the paparadelle with wild boar Bolognese – or one of the daily fish specials. Desserts offer a number of intriguing seasonal possibilities… but the restaurant also serves an interesting selection of eleven artisanal cheeses. And sommelier Adam Junkins has put together a superb wine list that is sure to please even the most demanding of oenophiles. In every respect, a superb dining experience.
Bon Appétit!
TAD
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