On Saturday, March 4, 2023, following an invigorating five days of sightseeing, wine-tasting, and restaurant-hopping in South Africa, we boarded the
Azamara Journey, embarking upon a somewhat unusual odyssey, a 21-day cruise that would transport us up the west coast of Africa, making port in several third-world countries, the Canary Islands, and Madeira Island, Portugal, before eventually disembarking in Lisbon.
Walvis Bay, Namibia: The western border of the Republic of Namibia, is the Atlantic Ocean. It shares
land borders with Zambia and Angola to the north, Botswana to the east, and South Africa to the south and east. Although it does not border Zimbabwe, less than 660 feet of the Botswanan right bank of the Zamezi River separates the two countries. Namibia gained independence from South Africa on March 21, 1990. It is a member state of the United Nations, the Southern African Development Community, the African Union, and the Commonwealth of Nations. (Pictured: Pelican Point Lighthouse, Walvis Bay)
It has a population of 2.55 million people and is a stable multi-party parliamentary democracy. Agriculture, tourism, and the mining industry – diamonds, uranium, gold, silver, and base metals – form the basis of its economy. Manufacturing is comparatively small.
The name of the country is derived from the Namib Desert – the oldest desert in the world – a broad expanse
of plains & dunes that stretches along the country’s entire coastline… And its sand dunes, created by the strong onshore winds, are the highest in the world. It was here that our excursion – Living Desert by 4 x 4 – took us. We had been warned numerous times that many of our sojourns to third world African countries would not be up to first-class tourist standards. This excursion, however, was very pleasant. Our driver/guide was extremely knowledgeable and spoke excellent English. Not only did he take us for a thrilling ride up & over the sand dunes, but he was constantly stopping to search the sand for some of the desert’s most fascinating indigenous creatures.
Luanda, Angola: Once known as the “Paris of Africa,” Luanda fell on hard times in the mid-1970s with the outbreak
of the Angolan Civil War between communist and anti-communist factions in which 500,00 people lost their lives. After decades of conflict, which only ended in 2002, the government began a massive rebuilding program financed with oil revenues. Projects include large social housing high-rise blocks of flats to replace slums and existing dilapidated tower blocks; extensive repaving; the construction of several six-lane highways leading out of the city; the reconstruction of railway lines; and a large new airport, which is scheduled to open this year.
Our excursion – Luanda at a Glance – took us on a tour of the city’s historic landmarks, which began with a
scenic drive along Marginal Bay and a stop at Our Lady of Nazareth Church, a colonial structure built in 1664. This was followed by a visit to the Fortress of San Miguel (pictured), which was built in 1576 by Paulo Dias de Novais. It became the administrative center of the colony in 1627 and a major outlet for slave traffic to Brazil. Today, it holds the Museum of the Armed Forces.
The final stop was the Agostinho Neto Mausoleum, an obelisk-like concrete structure that towers above the
city of Luanda. It occupies the center of the Agostinho Neto Cultural Center, which serves as Agostinho Neto’s final resting place. Neto (1922 – 1979) served as Angola’s first president from 1975 – 1979 after Angola had secured its independence from the Portuguese. He remained the leader of the Popular Movement for the Liberation of Angola in the subsequent civil war, dying before its final end in 2002. A Portugal-trained physician, he was also known for his literary skills as a renowned poet. The tower was designed to reference Neto’s poem, The Path of Stars, and is named after his book, A Sacred Hope.
Built in 2012, the project was initially awarded to a Brazilian company; however, it was completed by Mansudae Overseas Project, a North Korean sculptural business that has built monuments in many parts of the continent. Rumor has it that North Korean funded the $40 million dollar structure. Others assert that it was a gift to Luanda from the Russian government.
At over 393 feet, the obelisk is taller than both New York’s Statue of Liberty and London’s Big Ben belltower, dominating central Luanda’s skyline. The grounds surrounding the monument include lawns and gardens, as well as reviewing bleachers and statuary.
Takoradi, Ghana: Ghana is situated on the coast of the Gulf of Guinea. Although relatively small in area and population, Ghana is one of the leading
countries of Africa, partly because of its considerable natural wealth, and partly because, on March 6, 1957, it was the first black African country south of the Sahara to achieve independence from colonial rule.
Agriculture, forestry, and fishing not only provide the bulk of the national income, but they also employ more than half of the population. Cacao – grown commercially for its cocoa beans – is cultivated on more than half of Ghana’s arable land and is a significant source of the country’s export revenue.
Our excursion took us on a bus tour through the twin cities Sekondi & Takoradi… Takoradi is famous for being the home of Ghana’s first deepwater seaport, built in 1928. It also boasts an array of attractive beaches, historic sights, and factories. And TripAdvisor offers potential visitors a wide range of modern hotels and restaurants.
Our first stop, however, was the Albert Bosomtwi-Sam Fishing Harbor. An experience our cruise line blithely narrated in a paragraph filled with
innocuous euphemisms: “Immerse yourself in Ghana’s culture and traditions… Watch the locals as they go about their daily lives at the Albert Bosmtwi-Sam Fishing Harbour. Here, fishermen and fish mongers preserve the fresh catch of the day. See as the fishermen unload the fresh fish from the boats while the woman go to work to preserve the fish.”
To call the above description misleading would, indeed, be an understatement. Nothing could quite have prepared us for the upcoming culture shock – but Azamara should at least have made the attempt. The moment
the bus opened its door, the aroma poured in like a malevolent spirit. An odoriferous combo of gutted fresh & rotting fish mingled with the perspiration of unwashed bodies and the unmistakable hint of human waste; the stench – exacerbated by oppressive heat and humidity – was simply overwhelming. And the signs – “No Defecation” – posted at strategic points throughout the area, seemed to bear witness to the lack of proper restroom facilities. The entire scene was, to say the least, a good deal less than hygienic. (Note the pictures above.) It was an incredibly eye-opening experience to realize that there are people who live and work in such conditions.
From there we moved on to the bustling Takoradi Market Circle where local women were busy selling crafts, art, and fresh produce. However, we didn’t stop here, which was unfortunate, as I – and, I am certain, many of my fellow travelers – would have much preferred the sights & sounds of the market rather than the horrific smells of the harbor.
Our final stop before returning to the ship was a local hotel for cold liquid refreshments (nonalcoholic) and entertainment in the form of traditional African
drumming and dancing. And the sharp contrast between our recent sojourn and what we were now experiencing could not have been more apparent. For while the facilities would certainly not be considered luxurious, they were pleasant, neat, clean, and the restrooms, particularly, were absolutely spotless. So much so that it was difficult to remind ourselves that we had not stumbled upon some cozy little inn in Europe or the United States.
The drumming and dancing were fantastic; and the cool, casual, and understated atmosphere of the hotel a welcome respite from the oppressive third world heat & humidity.
Abidjan, Ivory Coast: Ivory Coast, also known as Côte d’Ivoire, officially the Republic of Côte d’Ivoire, is
situated on the southern coast of west Africa. Its largest city and economic center is the port city of Abidjan. A cultural crossroads of west Africa, Abidjan is characterized by a high level of industrialization and urbanization. It is also one of the most populus French speaking cities in Africa.
Following the construction of a new wharf in 1931, and its designation as the capital city of the then-French colony in 1933, Abidjan began a pronounced period of expansion. The completion of the Vridi Canal in 1951 enabled the city to become an important seaport; and it remained the capital even after the country’s independence from France in 1960. In 1983 the city of Yamoussoukro was designated as the official political capital of the Ivory Coast.
However, Abidjan remains the officially designated “economic capital” of the country, both because of its size and the fact that it continues to be the center of the country’s economic activities.
Since none of the shore excursions being offered were particularly appealing, we had made arrangements through our trusty travel agent for a private tour
that would take us to the town of Grand-Bassam, the former French colonial capital of Côte d’Ivoire, the historic center and the adjacent African fishing village of which were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2012 (Pictured: Former Palace of the Governor, now the Museum of Costumes).
However, there were complications… For starters, soldiers packing automatic weapons & guard dogs. And passengers were told that unless they boarded an Azamara tour bus for a specifically designated excursion, they would not be allowed to leave the dock area… nor would any other vehicles be permitted in. Which meant, of course, since our guide & his driver were not allowed to crash the party, our scheduled sojourn to Grand-Bassam would be scratched. Not even our noble ship’s captain, who was doing his best to deal with the situation, appeared to be having much luck negotiating with the recalcitrant local constabulary.
But then… an hour and a half later – as if by magic – everything changed. Suddenly all passengers were free to come and go as they pleased. So, what
transpired???? My guess is that some money changed hands… but don’t quote me on that. In any event, enter our guide and his driver determined to fulfill their contract to show us the sights and sounds of Grand-Bassam. Problem was, the morning was getting on… it was a 45-minute drive each way to and from Grand-Bassam… and the ship had made it abundantly clear that all passengers had to be back on board at a certain time in preparation for sailing at the appointed hour. The ship would wait for late passengers if they were part of a Azamara-sponsored excursion… However, if they were out on their own, it would depart without them. Not a pleasant thought.
We did, of course, relay this vital tidbit of information to our guide, who promptly replied that there was absolutely no problem. Needless to say, we were more than a little skeptical; but he continued to chatter on, assuring us that there would be plenty of time to get to and from our appointed destination. Well, you can guess the rest… Our trip was as slow as a herd of turtles, due to excessive traffic on a major highway… and, glancing across the medial strip, there appeared to be even more awaiting us on the return. Basically, we arrived at Grand-Bassam… made a couple of turns around the block… and it was already time to start back. Even then, we practically had to threaten legal action/bodily harm, before our guide got the picture.
We arrived back at the pier just under the wire… We had spent two hours on the road and all of fifteen minutes at Grand-Bassam, which, as I’m sure you
can surmise from the photographs, was not very grand at all. In fact, it had turned out to be a colossal disappointment. Most of the prominent colonial-era public buildings were constructed between 1894 and 1920, during the town’s short-lived “golden era.” However, after the French built a new wharf at Abidjan in 1931, and the new commercial capital grew in importance, Grand-Bassam became a sleepy backwater, and many of its public buildings were simply neglected and allowed to decay. A handful – namely the Post Office and Town Hall – have been restored, but the others remain in ruins and the streets in the old part of town are virtually deserted.
Banjul, The Gambia: Banjul, formerly Bathurst, located on St. Mary’s Island near the mouth of the
Gambia River, is the capital of The Gambia; it is also the country’s largest city. It was founded in 1816, when the British Colonial Office ordered Captain Alexander Grant to establish a military post on the river to suppress the slave trade and to serve as a trade outlet for merchants ejected from Senegal, which had been restored to France. Grant chose Banjul Island as the site, which he renamed St. Mary’s. He named the new settlement for Henry Bathurst, then colonial secretary. It became the capital of the British colony and protectorate of Gambia and, after 1947, was governed by a town council. With The Gambia’s independence in 1965, the town was granted city status and became the national capital. The name was changed to Banjul in 1973.
Banjul is the country’s commercial and transportation center. It has several peanut decorticating plants and oil mills… Peanuts, peanut oil & meal, and palm kernels are exported. Tourism is also of increasing importance, alleviating some of the urban unemployment problem and encouraging handicraft industries.
Banjul is connected with the interior and neighboring Senegal via a 3-mile ferry northward across the Gambia River and by the Banul-Serekunda Highway.
There were several excursions offered, including a trip through the Fathala Nature Reserve, which entailed crossing over into Senegal, as well as a one-hour bus ride to & from the point of departure. Sounded very interesting… But those who elected this excursion were the unfortunate victims of Murphy’s Law (“Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong”), as not only did they encounter difficulty getting back & forth across the border, but their bus also broke down, leaving them stranded in the wilderness for several hours. As a result, they were very late returning to the ship.
Luckily, we had chosen something a bit less traumatic… Our Mangrove Creek Cruise took us in a typical pirogue – a flat-bottomed boat designed to navigate the shallow waters – on an up-close and personal glimpse of the flora and fauna (and oyster beds) along the shoreline. As relaxing as it was instructive.
We were also told that we could wear swimsuits under our clothing and go for a “refreshing swim” should the tide be right. Actually, no one on the boat decided to take the plunge, which, given the downright unhealthy color of the water, was undoubtedly a smart move. We were, however, able to snap a few photographs of a party enjoying their leisurely lunch on a sandbar (pictured).
All was well… until, on our return trip, the engine started to sputter…. and stopped. Thought we’d be stuck in the middle of the river for the duration… Fortunately, the engine returned to life and we managed to limp back into port.
To be continued…
Bon Appétit & Cheers!
TAD